"Reminiscences of nearly half a century in Japan"
農 • 畜産 関係お 雇い 外国人 教師 研究 モノ グラフ
Edwin Dun:
Reminiscences of Nearly Half a Century in Japan
まえがき
ここに 翻刻した の は、 Re 黼 iniscences of Nearly a Half Century in
Japan と 題され た Ed 曹 in Dun の 回想録で ある 。^
元の 原稿 は 故 高 倉 新 一 as 氏が 新 蔵 されて いた 1h くが、 我々 が 翻刻す るに
あたって 利用で きたの は、 「ダンと 町村 記念 事業 ft 会 J 所蔵の 電子 複写で あ
る。 一 揮 不鮮明な 窗所 について は、 北海道 大学 附属 図書館 北方 資料室 所蔵の
電子 複写 を 参照した。
Reminiscences of Nearly a Half Century in Japan は、 高 倉 w —郎 氏が
邦訳し、 招 和 37 年に 「日本に おける 半世紀の 回想 J の 題で ェ ドウ イン • ダン
頃彰 会から 出) R されて いるが、 その 英語) R は出販 されて いない。
屎稿 は、 大 » 分 タイプされ ており、 読みに くい わけで はない が、 独特の 分
かち 害き、 タイ ビングの 教 りな ども 多く、 人名 • 地 名の 表記が 標準 的で ない
場合 も ある。 また、 意味 は 取れる ものの、 文法的に は 非 文と 言わざる を 得な
いような もの も 散見され る。 我々 は、 ダンが 出 贩 すると すれば、 当然 修正し
たであろう ような 点 を 正した エディ シ ヨン を 刊行す る こと を 計画して いるが、
まず、 資料と して 頁 • 行 などの 体裁 を そのままに 翻刻し ようと 考えた。 それ
が 本 冊子で ある。
翻刻に あたって は、 明らかな ミス スペリング や、 タイピング • エラー を 正
し、 日本人 名 や B 本の 地名 は樣準 的な 表記に 直した が、 独特の 分かち書きと
破格 構文に ついては、 そのまま にした。 なお、 原文に は 無い がどうしても 必
要と 思われる 前置 調な ど は、 [ ] を 付けて 捕った。 また、 疑問が ある もの
の 修正し にくい ところ は、 [sic] と 記し、 今回 は そのまま にして おいた。
本 翻刻 は、 平成 2 年度の 文節 省 科学 研究 费複助 金 一般 研究 B を 受けて 行な
われて いる 「農 • 畜産 W 係の S 拓使 お雇い 外国人 教 » の 技術 指導に 閱 する 実
IE 的 事例研究 一一 報 文お よ び 書簡な どの 翻刻 を 中心とする 書誌 的 整備 と 技術
移転に ついての 考察 一— J (研究 代表者： 川端 香） の 成果の 一揮で ある。
平成 2 年 11 月 11B
西
川
梅
梅
出
端
津
津
公 之
勝
一 孝
REMINISCENCES OF NEARLY A HALF CENTURY IN JAPAN.
by BDNIN 蘭
Pomer United States Minister to Tokyo.
In the early seventies 謂 y father, his three brothers and one
sister were large land owners in central Ohio, Owning anong then about
15,000 acres of, perhaps, the finest "blue grass land" to be found
outside of Kentucky. Their business was, in general, the handling of live
stock - cattle, sheep, and hogs - for the eastern markets, but also, in
particular, the rearing of thorough bred "Short Horn* cattle, horses, pigs
and sheep for the iniprovenent of their own herds and for sale to other
breeders.
To supply winter food for their herds it was necessary to keep
a large part of their estates under cultivation and the extent of their
business required the nost up to date Methods in agriculture and breeding
practiced at that tiae, to insure success.
For reasons unnecesary to mention, I left school - Springfield
Ohio, New Brighton Pa. and last Mia 鼷 i University at Oxford Ohio. - at the
age of eighteen and joined ny father in the nanagenent of bis business*
My elder brother, Janes, having chosen civil engineering as his profession
for which he proved himself eminently fitted. For twenty five years he
filled the post of Chief Engineer of the A'T, & S.F. Railway systea.
And at the tine of death - 1909 - was consulting engineer to that
great railway system,
Froffl 1866 until 1873 ny occupation was stock farming in all its
branches. For soMe years I was with my father, for two years with ny uncle
Halter whose estate was devoted to the rearing of "Short Horns* and race
horses. He had $100,000 invested in the latter and his stable Mas well
represented and well known at all the principal race meetings throughout
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the nest as well as at sow of tiie big Meetings in the east.
Frod 1871 I was aostly ragaged in the live stock business on ay
own account and in partnership with ay cousin. Allen H. Thuraan of Colunbus,
son of Senator A.G. Thuraan, one of the «ost proainent aen in the United
States at that tiae and for aany years after. I loved the business for
which I was well equipped and the independrat outdoor life that ms a
part of it. At that tiae coitral Ohio was a paradise for the sportsaan.
The fields were alive mith quail and the wood- lands with wild turkeys,
ruffed grouse and other gaae. As ay brother, self and aany cousins were
brought up fro« childhood to consider shooting and fishing the only
recreations worthy of a boy's spare tiMe. I naturally spent the greater
part of ay leisure in the fields and forests with dog and gun. As the
greater part of the land was still in virgin blue grass and the enclosed
pastures were very large, often 1,000 acres or aore in extent, it ras easy to
■ake one's way on a trained horse for ten or wore 蘭 iles in alaost any
direction without Much regard for public highHays.
In My father's and uncle's faailies there were Bore than twenty
young people who, together with the old folks, fomed quite a social colony
of their own. And as Many relatives fron far and near ca«e as visitors
during the soMier and autum Months, "Dun Plains", as our neighborhood was
called, mas the scene of alaost daily or nightly festivities: Dinners,
dancing and riding parties. Even the cold nights of winter were Berry with
the jingle of sleigh bells and jolly gatherings around the great log fires
at one or the other of our hoaes. My father and his brothers and sisters
were born and grew up on my grandfather's estate near Lexington, Kentucky.
My Mother cane fro* Norfolk, Virginia. We looked on life and lived it in
a different way froa the faailies of neighboring land owners and, although
the hospitality of our hoaes was free to all and bed and board gladly
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given to the stranger, our intercourse with then was United to what
kindly feeling and courtesy deManded. Our ways in business Matters Mere
also different. While keen traders in big things He left the snail trading
of the fam to our tenants. For instance, should a neighbor want ten
bushels of seed corn or wheat or oats, he t«as told to go to the crib or
bin and help himself. Should he want a young boar or ran he Mas told to
select the one he most fancied. When payment was offered, he was invited
in to sanpie our Bourbon and the clink of glasses squared the account.
When twice a day the calves had all the ailk they could hold, the cows, to
the number of thirty or forty had to be 黼 ilked. After the require»ents of
the household was supplied, the reiiainder of the 觀 ilk was free to any one
who night want it and what renained. if any, was given to the pigs to swilK
The waste resulting fron such a lordly way of faming was very
great and as the country grew in population the thrifty Methods of the
small farmer, mostly tenants of the large land owners > could only result
in the enrichnent of the fomer at the expense of the latter. Still the
rapid increase in the value of land, the superior knowledge of my father
and his brothers and their better equipnent for fan work enabled thea to
hold their own until the great depression in all business enterprises
which was first felt, if I reMevber correctly in 1871 crippled all who
had money invested in business enterprises.
He all had borrowed money invested, well secured by our lands, but as the
depression continued, were doing business for years on falling Markets. The
tenant went into his hole and lived on what he raised, used parched rye
for coffee and sorghun molasses or naple sugar for sweets. Having little
noney invested in live stock he passed through the dark days with little
loss. But with the large land owner whose capital and credit were invested
in the live stock business the consequences were disastrous in the
extreme. My father and his brothers cane out in much better shape than many
others but were burdened with Mortgages on their land that to say the
least were very inconvenient to carry. As for ayself I had been doing
business on My account for two years when the cyclone struck us and by
good luck as well as by hard work, had Managed to accumilate a very
considerable sun on the right side of ny account. But it was all, with
boironed capital invested, in cattle and in the spring of 1873 lAen I had
sold the last hoof, I found myself with but a few hundred dollars that I
could call ny own.
HOW I HENT TO JAPAN.
In 1871 the Kaitakushi (Colonization DepartMnt of Hokkaido)
was organized by the Japanese govemMent. Its object was the developnent
of Hokkaido, the big northerly island of the Eapire. Its 髑 ineral resources,
its agriculture* its fisheries, forests, etc. with the end in view oi indu-
cing settlers fron the Mainland to go there. While at that tiite there were
tornis and villages around the entire coast of the island and Hakodate was
an important port and coMercial city of the Enpire, the interior was
known only to the Ainu or pri 麵 itive settlers. There were no roads or other
means of coMiunication with the interior and the dense growth of scrub
bamboo that covered the highlands rendered progress on horse back or even
on foot difficult. It is true there are sone rivers, particularly the
I shikari and Tokachi and, in a less degree, some others which are naviga-
ble for Many Miles inland for s«all boats. But there was no inducenent for
settlers to utilize this means of penetrating the interior and making
hones there. The fisheries were the only profitable enterprise that
Hokkaido offered at that time. Thousands of nen fron northern Japan proper
spent the season at the nany fishery stations on the Hokkaido coast and
returned to their hones when cold weather set in.
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In addition to the development of the natural wealth of Hokkaido
for the use of their increasing southern population, the govem»ent had in
view the defence of the island fron possible seizure and occupation by
Japan* s northern neighbor (Russia) already well established near by and
whose ambition was to secure ice free ports as outlets for trade and for
military purposes.
In view of the conditions briefly stated the government establi-
shed the Kaitakushi to continue for ten years froM the beginning of 1872.
General Kuroda Kiyotaka was appointed governor with almost suprene control
in all natters pertaining [to] the new departnent. A liberal sun was set
apart by the government to carry out the work in view, which was paia in yearly
installments into the Kaitakushi treasury. The Kaitakushi was not accoun-
table for the expenditure of this sun to the central government.
Early in 1872 General Kuroda, acconpanied by a considerable party
visited Washington and consulted General Grant, then president, in regard to
securing the services of a staff of experts to assist in the Hokkaido
development work. Two were recommended by General Grant hinself and, of
course, were engaged. One of these was Gen, Horace Capron, who at the time
of his selection was U.S, Coomissioner of Agriculture at Washington, The
other presidential selection was Captain Nasson U.S.A. General Capron was se-
lected to fill the post of general Adviser to the Kaitakushi, Captain Hasson
to be chief of the trigonoaetrical survey to be nade of the island. He was
afterwards superseded by Lieut* Murray S. Day U.S.N, The other nembers of
the staff were selected on the reconHendation of well known authorities
in their various lines* They were Dr, Antisell, physician and chemist, Mr.
B.S. Lyman, geologist and mining engineer, Mr.Shelton agriculturist, Mr.L.Boeh-
mer, horticulturist and Mr. Holt, millwright and machinist.
In May, 1873. the Kaitakushi, by that tiwe fairly well started
sent to the United States for quite a large number of thoroughbred Durhaui
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or "Short Horns" cons and heifers for breeding purposes. Several bulls of
that breed had already been imported. This order was placed in the hands
of Mr. A.C. Capron, a coMiission Merchant of Chicago, and son of General
Caproni to fill.
Mr, Capron cam to "Dun Plains" to get what was wanted and I was
delegated by 黼 y father and uncles to show bin our herds of Short Horns
and to assist hi 画 in selecting a herd best suited to the require«ents
of the Japanese. He got together a fine lot, about eighty, of young cows
and heifers all of which had either had calves or were with calf. By
arrangeaents, I agreed to deliver the lot at the Chicago Stock Yards on a
certain date. This was done and after the conclusion of our business Mr.
Capron and I dined together at the Stock Yard Hotel. During our dinner
Mr. Capron infomed me he had another coMiission to fill in which 1 wight
be able to assist hi 韉， It was to secure the services of stme one well up
in live stock breeding and handling as well as a practical famer expe-
rienced in up to date Methods in the United States, to take the place of
Mr, Shelton who had resigned. After «any questions had been asked by ne
and answered by Mr. Capnm to the best of his ability. I asked him if he
thought I would be a suitable person to undertake the job. He at once
replied that he had had «e in Mind for the place ever since m had first
net, but had been afraid to make the proposition before our other business
was concluded, as he felt alnost certain that what he had to offer was not
good enough to induce we to give up 騮 y hone and prospects there for
a job of unknown requirenents on the other side of the globe. I replied
that while the salary offered was not princely it was wore than sufficient
to cover living expenses while away and, owing to the business depression
in the United States, which in all probability would continue for another
year or More, I would lose nothing by leaving how at that tine and, as his
proposition offered an excellent opportunity to see Japan I was prepared
to accept it for one year provided a first class return to America was
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included in My contract. This he said was provided for in his instructions
which he showed ne. He then and there nade a neno of contract which both
of us signed. I further volunteered to assist bin in the shipnent of his
live stock to San Francisco and to take charge of at least a part of th<em
across the Pacific.
Our agreement was concluded on a Friday evening in Hay. I wired
hone that evening "am leaving for Japan Ilcmday morning will be hone
tomorrow pack ny trunk" . I reached hone Saturday morning and, of course,
found my father. Bother, brothers and sisters in considerable co«Motion.
However, I persuaded them to look upon ny going to Japan as I then consi-
dered it myself, vore of a lark than as a pemanent change. Saturday and
Sunday I took leave of ny uncles, aunts and cousins, all of tthon looked
upon ny expedition rather as a joke than as a business enterprise. They
bid me a laughing good bye with nany good wishes for a safe crossing of
the Pacific which was not looked upon in those days as the safe Matter of
course that it is now. On Monday I took leave of all at hone and did not
see them again for ten years.
EN ROUTE FOR JAPAN.
On Tuesday I joined Mr. Capron who infomed m that twenty wore
cows and one hundred South Down sheep, ordered from Canada, had arrived and
all arrangeiients to ship our live stock the next day were completed. A
train of fourteen cars was required for this purpose. The young nan who
brought the Canadian consignnent agreed to help us as far as Ogden.
We made a good start on Nay 16th and as facilities for feeding
were good and [sic] until we reached Onaha we had a conpara lively easy tine
of it until we left that place. At that time Omaha was about the end of civi-
lization going west. It was the Most aboninable 矚 ud hole that one could
imagine. Located on the black alluvium of the Missouri River botton, the
streets were as nature made then. They were a horror of 蘭 ud three feet deep
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and in places, holes, into which it was death for aan or beast to stinAle.
It had been raining for a meek or ten days before our arrival and all
traffic in the so called city was at a standstill. The only vehicles of
transport that I saw were wagons drawn by six or eight yoke of oxen.
These long strings of cattle were to be seen, floundering up to their
bellies in inid, fro« the river up to and along the principal streets
of the town. When I next saw Onaha ten years later there was nothing
left to recall ay first experience there. Asphalt, wood and stone replaced
the horrid md, and streets of handsoae buildings the wooden shanties that
were before.
FroH Oaaha on our real troubles began. The railway yards into
which live stock could be unloaded, fed and reloaded were few and far
between. All the way across the plains they were, on an average, about twen-
ty four hours run apart. As the weather was getting war*, the cattle suffe-
red greatly, especially for want of water. In Hyoaing we ran into a wash
out, about one fourth of a nile of track having been washed away by what
is called in that region a "cloud burst". Here m were delayed twenty
four hours with a train of faaishing cattle and sheep on our hands. They
Rust have water or die. So m secured buckets fro* the engine and started
in to water then by hand fro* the ditches along side of the track which
fortunately were full of rain water. As the only experienced stock nan in
the party I was unaniMusly elected to go inside and deal out the water.
Knowing what to expect some train hands had been engaged and ar«ed with
long stout poles to keep the beasts fro* crowding upon we. But for this
precaution I would have been crushed to a jelly. As it was I was kicked,
horned, bruised in numberless places and covered with filth by faaished
beasts crowding upon me. The cattle were loose in the cars and, of course,
all made a rush for the water. Khen the first car was finished we tackled
the second and so on, until the twelve car loads of cattle were satisfied.
The two cars of sheep gave little trouble. We were ten hours on the job.
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It t«as the «ost trying physical experience that I ever mi Hith. For days
after I was so stiff that it mas painful to w>ve at all, but tbe care of
the cattle required constant attention and there was no one to take ay pla-
ce. He were three days froa Oiicago to Oaaha and sixteen days frai (kaha
to San Francisco, nineteen days in all.
The unloading of tbe stock pens usually occured at night and
often it was long after Midnight before feeding and watering was finished
and we could seek a few hours rest at the station hotel if there happened
to be one at that particular place. If not at so«e low-dom saloon
restaurant and gambling place, run for the acco— odation of cow
boys and less respec^Ie residents of the plains. At one such place, if
I reMaiber correctly, Cheyenne, m were forced to retreat backwards to the
outlet Kith the business ends of our revolvers covering a drunken lot of
scoundrels who insisted upon our aaking a night of it with thea. They were
men who understood the persuasive influence of a 44 cal. Navy and recog-
nized that we were worked up to the point of shooting up the entire
premises if further Rolested. This occurred at about two a.n. When we
got out of the den we made for the station hotel about 300 yards distant,
which had been closed for hours. Being angry, hungry and aiserable
generally m kicked the door until the night watctwan finally let us in
after much explanation and bad language had passed through the door. On
his refusal to get us any thing to eat me told hi 矚 he could either take
a $5 bill for doing so or we would take him with us, look up the pantry
and help ourselves for nothing. He concluded that the $5 bill was the
best policy, nade us hot coffee and gave us a spread of cold meats , bread
and butter that appealed to ne as one of the finest spreads of good things
I had ever encountered.
While on the way the train aien had, of course, no use for their
sleeping bunks in the caboose of the train and kindly peniitted us the
use of then. The run of each crew was from one stock yard to the next
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and when our cars were placed at the unloading chutes, the engine, caboose
and crew left, to be replaced by a new crew next aorning.
At that ti»e the plains were for hundreds of 翻 iles at a stretch
alHost entirely [un] inhabited. Occasionally the buildings and corral Is of a
cattle ranch would be seen, also herds of cattle and occasionally a few
buffalo Migrating northwards. Beyond this only herds of antelope
and nunberless jack rabbits.
At Ogden our Canadian friend left us. He had proved to be a good
felloM and valuable assistant and help through ail of our troubles. Fro«
there on, although short handed we got alon^ with little trouble as the
railway facilities for handling live stock en route were such better than
before.
At San Francisco we turned our charge over to the Japanese
Consular authorities who had nade arrangeaents for their keep and
shipment across the Pacific,
We had got through without the loss of a single head, in fact
the herd was added to by the birth of a calf en route which grew up to
be a fine cow in Japan. But it was more by good fortune than good Manage-
ment that we succeeded so well. Before leaving Chicago I told Mr. Capron
that each com and heifer should have a place to itself in the cars where
they could, if necessary, be fed and watered without difficulty. I pointed
out that they were too valuable to be handled as beef cattle were handled.
But all arrangenents for the shipment had been made ana it was thought too
late by Mr. Capron to change. As I was only a volunteer I had nothing
further to say, but had I known of the troubles ahead of us, I would not
have undertaken the job for an extra year's salary.
At Frisco I met ay cousin and old school nate, Alfred Dun, whooi
I found to be thoroughly conpetent in shotting me the town, I also met Mr.
Ralston, president of the Bank of California and the great financial Magna-
-li-
te of the West at that tine. I had a letter of introduction to hia from
My uncle. Senator Thunan of Ohio.
Mr. Yanagiya, a well knowi neiiber of the Tokio Club today was at
that tine Japanese Consul at San Francisco. He secured one of the best
rooms obtainable at the Grand Hotel for ny accomodation, of course on
account of the Japanese GovernHent and left instructions to charge extras
of every description to the sane account.
I arrived at San Francisco June 4th and remained there until
June 17th. Being in such good hands I had a delightful time of it for
nearly two weeks* All the aore enjoyable after the nineteen days of the
worst kind of roughing it just before.
On June 17th, one half of the cattle and all of the sheep were
shipped on board the P.M. side wheel steamer "Great Republic* of about
5,000 tons burden* I was furnished transportation on the sane streamer
and again volunteered to see that the live stock was properly looked after.
This duty required only general supervision on My part* The officers of
the ship saw to it that my instructions in regard [to] feeding etc. were
carried out*
The Great Republic was one of the most comfortable boats I have
ever traveled in. Her paddles gave her great bean and prevented rolling.
Captain Howard, her commander, took the direct course from Frisco to Yoko-
hama, passing within sight of the Mid Way Islands. We were favored with
charming weather and smooth sea all the way, arriving at Yokohama July
9th in the quick tine for those days, of twenty two days from San Francisco.
The "Great Republic" and her sister ship "Japan* and the "Ane-
rica* composed the trans-Pacific liners of the P.M. co. at that time.
Shortly after my arrival the "America* was burnt to the waters edge
in Yokohaaa harbor with the loss, in life of six or eight hundred Chinese
coolies returning hone from California. The "Japan" was also lost by fire
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a few years later at Shanghai, if I reaeaber right. In the spring of
1884 I saw the bones of the 'Great Republic' at the Bouth of the Colinbia
river where she was wrecked in trying to get in.
WHAT I FOUND IN JAPAN
I was Met at YokohaM by Kaitakushi officials who had arranged
for the unloading of the live stock. Within a few hours of landing I was
accoapanied to Tokio by way of the railway opened a few Months before.
I was taken directly to the head office of the Kaitakushi, in Shiba
park where I was very kindly received by General Kuroda and other high
officials of the departaent. After confining Ry provisional contract and
receiving My verbal report in regard to the live stock, I Has driven
by Mr. Dzushio, afterwards governor of Hokkaido under General Kuroda, to
the quarters that had been prepared for ae and which I occupied until
two years later. I took up ny permanent residence at Sapporo Hokkaido. I
found 画 y quarters very coaf or table indeed, consisting of a fra«e house of
four good sized rooms, a kitchen, servant quarters, bath roo«, etc. I found a
cook and boy waiting to receive Re and an aMple store of edibles and
drinkables ready for use.
Up to this tine I had not seen one of my Aaerican colleagues but
soon after I had settled down Mr. Louis Boehner, the horticulturist cane
to see Me and from that tiae friendship was for»ed between us that
lasted until his death uny years afterwards. Boelaer had arrived the
year before and was fairly well acquainted with the situation. The infor-
Mation and advice he gave me was of great iwediate service to we.
To forward the Hokkaido enterprise the Kaitakushi, by the advice
of General Capron established a large and very expensive intenwdiate
station at Tokio, consisting of an experinental fain with barns and
corrals for the reception of live stock. Also horticultural grounds of
150 acres in extent for the growing and distribution of all kinds of
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foreign fruits and vegetables together with green houses for tropical
flowers. The preaises included the land now occupied by the Red Cross
hospital and south to the tranway. Froii the present Red Cross preaises it
extended north west, including the Presbyterian school and Bission grounds
of today and, from then, across the nain Aoyana road for a distance of half a
Mile or More.
From the horticulture department over two millions of foreign
fruit trees and vines were distributed throughout the ain island (sic) of
Japan and it is from this source that the foreign fruit we get today cones.
The expense of keeping up such an enoraous establislwent Has
very great and, owing to difference in clinate, soil and almost all other
conditions, it was practically of no value in omnection with the coloniza-
tion and dvelopnent of the natural resources of Hokkaido.
Hy house was near the center of the farm of about fifty acres in
area. Upon arrival I found a long row of expensive barns and stables,
the plans of which were furnished by General Capron, located in about the
most unhealthy spot that could have been found in that part of Tokio. The
place Mas so bad and the reports of sickness aMong the cattle and horses
already there were so convincing that I declined to be responsible if the
aniMals brought over by me were placed there. My protest Mas so strong
that the Japanese officials under my direction, built open sheds near where
the main Red Cross hospital building now stands to accoiMiodate the live
stock. Fortunately General Capron was in Hokkaido at the tine and as he
was not referred to in the natter I had no opposition from that quarter.
All kinds of the most expensive agricultural machinery had been
imported. In taking stock I found threshing machines capable of threshing
out 1,000 bushels of grain per day; self binding reapers that could cut
twenty acres of grain per day; Mowing machines, gang plows; corn planters and
innumerable smaller machines and implenients, the greater part of which were
-14-
as useful in Japan as in [sic] a fifth wheel Nould be to a magon.
There were about 70 students at the fani and an office full of
officials, with only three or four of wboii I had anything to do. I arranged
to give lectures to the students. An hour or so every ■orning and an
equal tiMe in instruction in the field and in the care of live stock.
It was right here that I thanked ay stars for early training at ho«e
where the detail of fan work and care of doiiestic animls had been
drilled into ae froM childhood.
A year spent in the Manageaent of a racing stable of thorough
breds and trotters had finished ay education as a horseman. On reaching
nan's estate I prided Ryself on being able to lead the aen. always excep-
ting our Irish ditchers, in any branch of fan work and in the nanageient
of live stock. I could swing a scythe or ax with the best and in handling
all kinds of agricultural Machinery Has the best Man on the place. In
teaching the students and in practical infornation to the agricultural
branch of the Kaitakushi, this early training was invaluable and enabled m
to answer correctly, and alMOst without thought, in a thousand details,
alMOst any one of which would have stu 觀 ped the college-bred, book- learned
expert. It was for this reason that Mr. Shelton did not succeed. He was,
doubtless, learned in agricultural cheaistry, in botany, in plant life, in all
that books can teach in higher agriculture, but had no practical knowledge
whatever. At ho«e I had also taken up the study of veterinary surgery and
was fairly well up in aniaal anatoay. This also stood ne in good stead, as at
Uiat tiae there was not a graduated veterinary surgeon in Japan. In fact
in addition to the higher requirenents necessary for an expert adviser
in agriculture and live stodc breeding, I found it also necessary to
be a —Jack of all trades* .
Within a month or so I had got fairly started in my work. My
relations with the officials of the department, high and low. were excel lent [.]
I was also on the best terns with My students. I had gained their confiden-
-15-
ce and respect.
THE IMPERIAL VISIT
Early in Septeaber I was notified that His Imperial Majesty,
the Emperor, would visit the farm within a week or ten days and that we
must arrange for His reception. To have our live stock ready for his
inspection, as far as possible show hin our Anerican lobor saving Machinery
and iaplements in actual use. As I ms the only nan on the place that
could handle a team of horse decently I felt that I had a pretty large
order on hand but deteniined to Make a creditable showing if possible to
do so. We had a few acres of wheat, barley and rye grass still standing
and an anple extent of fallow land for showing the working of drills, corn
planters, etc. Fortunately we had a splendid team of American horse which
were all that were required for carrying out this part of the show. The
running of the great threshing machine was the most difficult part of the
job but we got together eight Japanese stallions to run the horse power
and after days of kicking, biting and squealing got them to working
well together. Of course all Machinery had to be well cleaned, oiled and
tested beforehand. Every machine was in place for instant work when
the great day came. Upon inquiry I was infomed that I Must appear in full
evening dress, high hat, white necktie and gloves.
The Emperor came in an imported court carriage and attended
by Prince Sanjo, Prime Minister, the great general Saigo, Okubo, Kuroda,
Okuna and «any others whoa, of course, I did not recognize at that tine-
After inspecting the live stock the Emperor was driven to where I was
seated on a reaping machine. I started at once and after reaping a few
rounds of barley and wheat changed ny tea, to a wowing machine and cut a
few swaths of rye grass* then changed again to a big wheat drill and then
to a corn planter. The Emperor was then driven to the thresher and the
power started with me on the feeding platfora. Feeding a big thresher
requires much skill and practice and is about the dirtiest work
-16-
iaaginable. I believe I aa the only aan living who has undertaken the job
in dress suit. Everything went off well and I was afterwards inforaed that
His Majesty was well pleased with the exhibition.
Froa the thresher He was driven to a reception house in a beau-
tiful garden on the fan. On his departure I aade quick tiwe to ay own
quarters, about the dirtiest individual ever seen in evening clothes and
high hat. After a bath I got into a yukata and long ba 髑 boo chair and, with
the assistance of a bottle of beer and cigar, was beginning to feel cwifor-
table again when in rushed my interpreter with the inforution that I was
wanted at once at the reception house to be presented to the Enperor.
Fortunately 霞 y boy had already been at work on Ry dress clothes and hat
so it required only a few «oaents to get the beastly things on again and
report to General Kuroda who was waiting for Me. He presented ae to one
of the lost distinguished looking Hen I had ever seen, a nan that would
attract attention no utter where he night be. He was General Saigo after-
wards known as the Great Saigo. The leader of the Satsuaa rebellion which
was suppressed after desperate fighting in 1887 when, rather than surrender,
Saigo coMitted harakiri. I was taken by General Saigo into the roo« where
the Emperor was seated in a large chair. I made three bows as instructed
and backed out. At that tine such salutations were not acknowledged in any
way by the Enperor. As I stood before hi, for a mmeat I noticed that
Prince San jo who Has standing near, whispered to hi 議. The Eaperor glanced
at Sanjo for an instant and nodded slightly. Shortly after this the
EMperor left the grounds. At this ti«e the Eaperor was twenty three years
of age, rather tall for a Japanese and very slender. It was ay good fortune
to Meet hi' Many tines in after years when he had Mtured in physique and
the nanner of his reception had changed.
-17-
FIRST IMPRESSIONS.
At this tine I had been three aonths in Japan. It was, of course
the time of first impressions. What were they? After 47 years of alnost
continuous residence here they seen noM to have been clouded and vague.
Conditions have changed so gradually, yet conpletely, that what I thought
the country and people then has but little connection with present
convictions. I was chained with the courtesy and kindness of the two
sworded gentlenen who were dally My companions, who seeded always pleased
to entertain me with the evident desire to lessen the loneliness of the
stranger so far from his hone. Their nanners were as they are now, Most
charming, but at that tine, it seems to ne, there was inore frankness and
real friendly feeling displayed than is net with today. It is true there
were a class of fanatics in bitter opposition to the change in govemaent
who were always ready* when opportunity off erred, to try their swords on
the barbarians whom they were convinced were the real cause of the change
that had taken place and who, they believed, intended to overrun and ultiia-
tely conquer their country and enslave its people. They could not keep
step with the progressive men of the tine who realized that old Japan was
a thing of the past and that they must go forward with, and be a part of
the outside world or cease to exist as an independent nation. Tine has
proved that the far sighted, progressive nen who ruled Japan at that day
were right and the reactionaries were wrong. But conditions then gave
color to the widespread belief that the foreigner had evil designs upon
their country and their only safety lay in casting them out and closing
Japan as it was before to the rest of the world. When it is reaienbered
that 1,500 British and 1,0(X) French soldiers then stationed at Yokohaaa
dominated the land from a military point of view, that the new government
of Japan had no force to meet then, should the crisis arise and that the
warships of the foreigner had, but recently, demonstrated their over
-18-
whel 韉 ing power at Shi«onoseki and Kagoshiaa, it is not surprising that fear
for the future possessed the souls of a proud, hoMe loving people ainost
entirely ignorant of conditions abroad and of the real designs of foreign
nations. It is indeed surprising that there were not more frequent out-
breaks and More widespread revolts. The apparent ease with which the great
leaders held the country in hand can be attributed, in the first place, only
to the love and universal veneration in which the Eneror Mas held and
the willingness of high and low to do his bidding and, secondly to the
centuries of discipline that had taught the loasses to unquestionly [sic] obey
the coMiands of their superiors.
The social divisions of the people of Japan prior to the resto-
ration are faniliar to all but the harvonious working of that social
state can only be appreciated by those who witnessed it. The denocrat of
today is apt to consider it as an evidence of the tyrannical rule of a
feudal state. As a natter of fact there was no tyranny in connection
with it. Each aan had his place fixed by centuries of usage and with
each place there were inviolable rights which were treasured by the coolie
as well as by the noblenan. The coolie felt no degradation in kneeling
when the noblenan passed. He felt he was only rendering an homage that
was undoubtedly due to his superior. He felt no degradation m his
lowly state, he was born in it as his forefathers had been for many genera-
tions before. He was not persecuted. The law of the land protected hi 瞓
in his rights. His hours of labor were less than now and his holidays
•uch aore frequent. Every sixth day was a holiday and the nuiiber of festi-
vals far nore frequent than at present. He was well fed and housed as
well as he is today. As I remenber it, the life of the people then was
much more joyous than now. They were content with their lot. Happy in
freedoB froM care and ignorant of a better life. It is true there was
another side to the picture. The visitations of pestilence and fa 矚 ine were
-19-
frequent and terrible. Cholera, snail pox and other scourges ravaged the
land unchecked and took their toll in Millions. Faaine Mas always local
and due to inadequate means of transporting supplies fron places of
abundance to places where there Mas want. These visitations were, how-
ever, accepted stoically by the people as beyond the power of nan to control.
In the same way they regarded the terrible conflagrations that periodical-
ly swept from one end to the other of their towns and cities. I visited
several of the great fires of Tokio. In front of the advancing f lanes the
streets would be filled with frenzied people fleeing with children,
cats and other household effects in their ams. On either side of the
blackened pathway of the fire would be seen groups of citizens seated
in some neighbor's house drinking sake and laughingly congratulating
their friend on his escape, this time, and expressing their sorrow for
the less fortunate ones in bunpers of wine.
Behind the flames in the still smoking ruins would be seen
hundreds of had been householders inspecting their fire- proof godowns
in which their most valuable effects were stored, and already marking out
sites for another natch wood dwelling or shop. It was only in front of the
terror that excitement was Manifest. On the other side, if not laughing good
humor, no noisy lanentatioi^were to be heard* This resignation of the
Japanese under misfortune I was at first disposed to attribute to callous-
ness but when I got to know then better I no longer did so. I believe it
to be the result of centuries of training during which they have been
taught to suppress their emotions. Those under affliction who have expe-
rienced the tender solicitude of Japanese friends can never doubt the
kindness of heart that prompts the ready help and sympathy so freely
given. In the first shock of surprise such as co«es with fire or earth-
quake, huiRan nature asserts itself with the Japanese as with all others. It
is later that the teaching of self suppression gains such
-20-
surprising control over Manifestations of personal eMotion. I believe the
Japanese to be, naturally an extranely emotional people. It is Uie spirit
of Bushido that has suppressed this tendency as inconsist^t with their
honor as mea and the fulfilling of their duty to their sovereign and
country. The old saaurai and the soldier of today were and are always
ready to take their om lives rather than submit to what they conceive to
be derogatory to their duty or honor without exhibiting a seablance of
regret or repugnance* If one could read the hearts of these sen
what a story of suffering 睡 ight be revealed!
In old Japan the people were efficient in all their si 鴯 pie life
required. Objects of art and industry that have cone down to us are
convincing evidence of this. But that they were i 矚 provident in regard to
the future is also apparent. Perhaps being satisfied with what their sim-
ple daily life required wide thea careless of what becaae of the surplus.
But in the new- life of today they are both improvident and inefficient.
Optimistic by nature they will gamble away not only their own patrimony
by [sic] but that of their dearest friend in the absolute belief of having
found the easy my to wealth. The lower classes are inclined to be inveter-
ate gsnblers. Hence the stringent laws in regard to gaabling that the author-
ities, rightly, so reaorselessly enforce in regard to the lower classes.
In regard to inefficiency, who has not observed a lot of road
menders at their work? The filling of a hole with sli»e fro« the gutter
nearest by， the sprinkling a few shovels of gravel on the top, the smoothing
over till it is a thing of beauty, the complacency with i*ich they view the
completed work as they depart for another beastly hole, that will presently
look pretty, and their absolute regardlessness of the certainty of the next
passing autoHobile scattering the covering gravel and the filthy muck
below to the four corners of the conpass. What old resident has not da«ned
the artist that sold him a beautiful chair that without provocation left
hin on the floor with a Mass of beautiful sticks about hi 讓. Or the doors
-21-
of his house, so substantial in appearance last August, that in the dry cold
Months of January and February afforded Bore ventilation than his friend
the fresh air fiend would approve of. In aore iBportant Batters I need
only naiie the postal systea, the telegraph, telephones and traas to eaphasi-
ze this all pervading inefficiency that handicaps Japan today.
Japan is still young in the ways of the West and her workaen
unskilled in the requirements of the new life she has entered. There is
hope that time and that stern Ben tor, coMpetition, will renedy the defects so
apparent today. As a witness of the progress this wonderful people have
made in almost half a century I have lived with then I hope and believe
they will make good in the end.
EARTHQUAKES and FIRES.
Before returning to the story of ay own reminiscences I will
venture a word of warning to the good citizens of Tokio. For aore than
twenty five years Prof. John Milne R S, the eminent authority on seisaology
was a resident of Tokio and during the greater part of that tine was ay
most intimate friend and constant companion. It is on the authority of
what I learned fron bin that I now venture to speak. Milne Made the study
of the earthquakes of Japan his speciality. He had a coaplete chronologi-
cal record of the destructive earthquakes that had occurred during the
past seven centuries. As far back as he could find reliable records
the number that had occurred in different parts of Japan was very large
and in the district now occupied by the city of Tokio not one century of
the seven had passed without one, two or three destructive ones occurring.
Hundreds of severer shocks approaching the destructive, but not classified
as such, Here recorded. In 1892 and 1895, if I re«e«ber correctly, I expe-
rienced two of the severe ones. The first was the tail end of the great
-22-
Gifu earthquake, the second was of local origin. I Has at the U.S« Lotion
when it occurred and ran upstairs to the rescue of My sister's two
children who were staying with ae at the tine* Hhen I reached the upper
floor the novenent was so great that I had difficulty in keeping 漏 y feet.
The house and chimeys were swaying about in an alaraing Manner and kept
it up for 50«e tine after the shock itself had ceased. The children were
frightened, of course, but seemed to enjoy the new experience when I assured
then it was all right. Buildings on the low lands of Tokio suffered wosU
Tsukiji had the appearance of having been boabarded. There was not a chim-
ney top left in the settlenent and »any brick buildings were badly cracked.
One of the Mission school buildings was almost destroyed* Bishop IkKiM
who was there at the iim had a narroH escape. As he Has leaving one of
the mission buildings a falling brick struck hin fairly on the head;
fortunately he had on a heavy sun helaet at the tine, which probably, saved
his life. In other parts of the city [in]any houses were damaged or even
destroyed. At the Geraan Legation the nain building and secretary's house
were so badly shattered that they had to be torn down and re- built.
At one of the barracks in the city a building col lapsed and
some soldiers were killed and many injured. The loss of life in Tokio was
about forty. This was classed as a severe but not as a destructive shock.
The Gifu earthquake was a very destructive one at the centre of the dis-
turbance. Fortunately with the exception of Gifu there were no large
centre of population in the locality where it was nost severe, Nagoya on
the outskirts of that locality suffered severely in loss of life and
buildings, mostly factories. The loss of life in the entire region was about
13,000. The nunber of na[i]i«ed and injured was much greater. Professor Milne
visited the region of greater diturbances as soon as he could get there.
In fact the after shocks had not entirely ceased on his arrival. It is
-23-
nostly a flat faming district with a few small towns and villages scatte-
red through it. But few houses were left standing. The plain was dotted
over with the thatched roofs of farms that had collapsed killing all who
had failed to get out in tiwe. The ground was Marked by fissures, especial-
ly embankments were nmch broken. In one place there was a subsidence of
four or five feet that cut across a highway foning a jump off in the road
of the sane height. The railway lines were twisted in a rewarkable manner;
looking along a line of rails the lines had a snake like appearance. A long
railway bridge was let down. The Hovenent of the ground under the rigid
bridge structure cru 顏 bled the Masonry of the supporting piers. In this
earthquake the novenent of the ground at Tokio was over two inches but was
very slow and but little danage was done. Mr* Kildoyle an Anerican resident
of Yokohama was stopping at a Japanese inn at Gifu when the earthquake
occurred. It was early in the Morning, Kildoyle ms still asleep. He was
awakened by a terrible commotion, the first thing he noticed was the paper
and outside doors of the house flying out of their grooves in all direc-
tions. He tried to stand up but was thrown down. He then managed to roll
and crawl out of the house into the street where he again attenpted to
get on his feet but failed. He said the shocks cane in quick succession
making hi 躍 feel sea-sick. Houses were falling into the street and fire
broke out in many places. The first and worst disturbance lasted for a few
minutes but was followed by others, of less force, at short intervals which
gradually increased in length and the shocks in the sane degree decreased
in force. Professor Milne estinated that the greatest horizontal «ove»ent
at Gifu must have been more than one foot and the vertical novenent five
or six inches.
The last great earthquake that visited Tokio was in 1853 or
1854. There are doubtless many people still living who experienced its
-24-
terrors. The records of it state that 100,000 people perished, aore by fire
that broke out in all directions than froa the earthquake itself » The
greater part of the city was destroyed. It is iiqmsible to say if it was as
violent as the Gifu earthquake or not, but it is knowi to have been very
violent and destructive. Earlier in the century 1810 or 1812 Tokio expe-
rienced a si 黼 ilar disaster. With these records before one can any reasona-
ble aan believe that these terrible visitors will not cone again? It was
Professor Milne's belief that their recurrence was not only probable but
absolutely certain sooner or later. Until about 1900 the architecture of
the city conforaed to the seisnic additions as closely as prudence requi-
red. Since then steel has been largely used to strengthen large buildings
and justify More lofty structures. Year by year the t^dency to add More
floors to buildings has increased. Not only where steel is used to streng-
then but also in brick and concrete structures where steel is not used
at all. It would see» that the test the future will surely apply to every
edifice in Tokio has been forgotten or ignored. Undoubtedly the rapid
advancing cost of building ground is the principal reason for higher and
higher builidngs, and the builder probably argues that the increased reve-
nue froH untaxed space above justifies the risk of sudden destruction
that nay not occur during his life time or, at least, until the rents fro«
his increased floor roon have covered his investment. That this kind of
ganbling can be approved fro« a business point of view I very much doubt.
That it cannot be approved froM an ethical point of view I have no doubt
whatever. It seens to ne it is high tiae for the city authorities
to take a hand in the game and require that every plan of building be sub-
-25-
nitted for approval to a competent board of engineers who should be fully
authorized and required to supervise constructions. I could point out fine
looking buildings, now occupied in Tokio today that have been constructed
with entire disregard of what ordinary prudence calls for and, doubtless
there are hundreds of others completed or now being built that should be
condemed. Doubtless the better class of new structures that are supported
by frames of steel of enomous strength would easily withstand the shock
of even a very severe earthquake. But would any one of then endure the
repetition of the Gifu earthquake?
After the Emperor's visit ny life at the farm passed easily and
pleasantly. One day so nuch like the preceeding that I reneiiber but little
of special interest. We had a splendid trotting stallion in our stables
that I made it ny business to exercise daily. Every evening I would have
"Don" harnessed to a light trotting sulky and drive for miles through the
streets of Tokio, In this way I got to know my way about as far as Ueno
and Asakusa. That part of the city was as faniliar to we then as it is
today. The soft streets of the city were then but little used by heavy
vehicles, kurumas and pedestrians were about all they had to withstand.
Especially in the old Dai 鶴 yo quarters the roads were as smooth as a floor
and delightful to drive over. The business quarter was almost entirely
between Nihonbashi and Kyobashi on one side and the Su«idagawa on the
other. In this district where the streets are narrow and then as now,
always crowded with people and heavy wooden wheeled hand carts required
for the traffic, I never ventured with "Don* and sulky. "Don* was a
remarkable horse, as bold as a lion and gentle as a la 園 b* i got to love hin
as only a horseman can understand. At times we would w^t processions
that to both of us seemed outlandish; great dashing followed by thousands
of yelling people with drums, flutes, children and it seemed with every other
imaginable beastly thing that could Make a noise. "Don* would stop, stare
-26-
with head up and ears pricked for a Moaent and then look back at we for
instructions. My "steady old boy' was always sufficient for him; with a snort
of conteapt he i«ould stand perfectly still until the beastly thing, as he
doubtless thought it, passed by. He always seeaed to feel perfectly sure
that I would never take him to iaproper places. Afterwards he ms in the
stud at Niicapu, Hokkaido for years and as his progeny was patriarchal » there
is doubtless mich of his blood in Japan today.
Just forty-six years ago this evening (this is New Year's eve)
1919, I was comfortably fixed in an easy chair at hone with a book when my
boy cane and told me the great Zojyoji tevie at Shiba was burning and
that the fam fire brigade was about to start for the scene of conflagra-
tion. I hustled into my overcoat and boots and went with them. The old
temple was «uch larger and higher than the structure that mas aftermards
built to replace it and which in turn was destroyed by fire ten or twelve
years ago. The night was perfectly still, snowing a little. When we got
there the large structure was a mass of fire. The roof of the teaple was
of copper and gave a wonderfully beautiful color to the f lanes that soared
up to a great height. The great bell, still in the sa«e place as then,
boomed out its lanent from the beginning. The belfry finally took fire
and as the bell becane heated its tone becane lower and lower until it
seeined an angry roar instead of the solenn but comforting boon of prospe-
rous days. The priests who swung the great log that tolled it did not
leave their post until the heat becane aore than nan could endure. Shortly
after they left [the] bell and belfry crashed down in a tower of fla«e and
sparks. The burning of this great temple was the «ost beautiful conflagra-
tion I have ever seen* Thirty years after I witnessed the destruciton by
fire of the temple built in the place where the old one had stood*
醒 LINGS WITH GENERAL CAPBON -
Sone Honths prior to the great teaple fire I aet General
Capron on his return fron Hokkaido. I feel reluctant to speak of the
-27-
General at all but as he is a part of the story I a 鷗 trying to tell I
cannot leave hi 議 out. He was a fine dignified looking, old gentlenan and
made the best cocktail I ever drank but was about as well fitted to fill
the place he occupied as General Janes Wilson of New Jersey told we after H
wards* he was to comiand a brigade in the U.S. army. He was a chaming com-
panion but nil as an organizer or leader of men. Instead of being a help
and support to his staff he was constantly a hindrance in their way. If one
of us had a suggestion to Make regarding our speciality he would blandly
refer us to the Japanese in our dapartinent. If we ventured to question
the advisability of his suggestions, he would inti«ate that it was i 麵 perti-
nent to question the wisdom of the acts of our chief. After naking his
acquaintance and in answer to his inquiry regarding the extension of My
contract I ventured to say that I had understood that I was engaged to
assist in the work connected with the colonizatin of Hokkaido ana I
failed to see in what way the very expensive establishments maintained at
Tokio were of nuch value in furthering that work and, unless I was
assured that the entire Tokio establishment would soon be transferred to
the northern island, I would not feel disposed to remain after the expiration
of my contract. He replied that I would find it to my interest not
to concern nyself with the the general Hanagenent of the department. That of
course I could not understand the advantage of having so inportant an
undertaking so near the presence of Majesty, I admitted he was quite right
that I could not understand the advantages he mentioned. I also took
occasion to ask him why mutton sheep had been iiiportea instead of
wool bearing animals and, also, why a part of the cows imported were not of
the best breeds of Milkers instead of the entire lot being beef producers.
I also did not fail to refer to the horribly unsanitary place selected for
the housing of our live stock. In fact the iMMensely superior air he was
pleased to adopt in my reception was not soothing in its effect on my
temper. He did not seen to be altogether pleased with our interview. I
-28-
em sure I was not. However its after effects were satisfactory in so far
as I Mas concerned. Thereafter the General troubled ae very little in the
aanageaent of My part of the business. Later on in the spring I was
approached by the Japanese authorities in regard to a renewal of my
contract. I inforaed the« of the objections I had stated to General
Capron. They assured ae they entirely concurred with My views and had
already decided to nove the entire Tokio establishaent to Hokkaido as
soon as possible. They also infoned ae that General Capron was returning
to Anerica before the end of the year and finally, that they were prepared
to alaost double my salary. This last ite« in their proposition natural-
ly influenced ne greatly and, finally, I agreed to stay on for another year.
- Friends
My second year in Tokio was sinilar in all respects to the first
excepting that I had Made Many friends, both Japanese and foreign. Aaongst
thou Here the Hon. John A. Binghaii U.S. Minis ter to Japan and his secretary
of legation, Mr. D.W. Stevens who afterwards rendered such splendid service
to Japan in the capacity of confidential secretary to Prince I to during
the latter' s administration of Korea. The brutal assassination of Mr.
Stevens at San Francisco by Korean fanatics is reaenbered by aany of his
friends living in Tokio today. The unreasoning barbarity of that cruel
deed can never be forgiven by then. He was one of the best mends that
poor misguided people ever had.
One noticeable feature of Japan when I first arrived was the
wild aniaal life that swaned every where. At Shiba and Ueno parks and
many other places in Tokio where there was cover, it was a conaon occurren-
ce to put up a cover of pheasants and in the suburbs they were far nore
plentiful than chickens. Near the farm they were so plentiful that I shot
-29-
them for the pot only. They were too easy for sport. In the nigra tory
season great flocks of water fowl of all kinds would cone in fron their
feeding ground to the moats of Tokio for shelter and protection. The »oat
in front of the British legation would be black with geese, ducks and other
kinds of water fowl. At the farm there was an artificial Fuj isan left from
ancient tines. It was honey combed with dens of foxes, badgers and smaller
prowling beasts. The nightly yelp of the dog foxes was as frequently heard
as the bark of the city dogs. I shall never forget an evening when I was
aroused by a noise in ny dining roon. Gently opening the door I observed
a fine dog fox on ny dining table regaling hinself with the contents of
my butter dish. When he saw me he leisurely departed as he cane through the
open windoM. In going he gave «e a look that spoke as plainly as words:
"you are an impertinent fellow to interrupt a gentleiian at dinner"? [sicj
Gentlemen had not yet taken to the fowling piece for sport and
fire arms were forbidden to the comnon herd. Trapping with nets and other
contrivances was permitted and by these Means the Markets were amply
supplied with game.
About the time of my arrival two bear cubs, male and female， were
sent to the farm from Hokkaido. They were great pets and for some tine
were permitted to go about almost without restraint. When they grew to
troublesome size wooden cages that appeared to be amply strong, were provided
for their acconunodation* The male grew prodigiously and the following spring
was an enornous beast for a cub. One night I heard a great connotion out-
side and through the windows saw many coolies running about with lanterns.
I hastily ran out thinking a fire had broken out. The night was very
dark and I could see nothing but the lanterns some distance away. Soon I
heard a grunting snuffling sound and the next moaent the paws of a great
stinking beast were around ne* To manifest his good will I suppose, he
licked my face with his beastly tongue* My protests against the procedure
-30-
were forcible. I kicked hi 讓 in the sto«acb and tried to chock [sic] hi 矚 with
•y hands. Finally I succeeded in getting free and Made 議 y record ti»e for
the house. When the coolies attracted by the row caMe up Hr. Bear subnitted
without protest to being conducted back to his cage idiich was repaired and
strengthened until a suitable structure of iron bars was provided to take
Its place.
I Settle in Hokkaido.
The next year 1875, I went to Hokkaido, spending the suMner a an
agricultural station, at Nanai, about ten 騙 iles north of Hakodate. Here I
«et ay fate in tiie person of the daughter of a snail official froa Tsugaru.
After alnost endless official requirements and red tape were complied with,
the natter was finally arranged greatly through the good offices of Mr.
Binghan* our minister.
I want to say right here that never for a «o»ent did I regret
the step I had taken. Through her I became acquainted with the «ost beauti-
ful part of Japan, her wonen of the better class. I »ay be prejudiced, but Vt
seens to m there cannot be a »ore unselfish, self sacrificing and lovable
creature on earth than a good Japanese Mowaiu Generations of education has
seeaingly succeeded in establishing two classes with dissi 鶴 ilar characteris-
tics in the sane race of people. The man is taught to believe that he is
"it* and that the exclusive Mission of wonan is to minister to his OMifort
and pleasure, to take proper care of his house and to bear nis children.
While he recognizes her authority in household Matters and nay truly be
affectionate and often faithful to her and always ready to listen to her
advice in time of trouble, he never forgets that he is one of the lords of
creation and that favors shown should be gratefully received as
condescensions on his part. While concubinage was recognized as the «an's
privilege it was very seldom that the wife and concubine occupied the sawe
house. I reneaiber but one instance where I was on visiting terms with the
-31-
husband that I was, on several occasions received by the wife and concubine
together. In this instance the relations between the two seeded to be
most friendly, I have heard of many other similar cases but, at the ti«e of
which I an writing, it was far fro* being the general practice. Japanese
history tells us that women have played a leading part in the sterner af-
fairs of governnent. While such instances are rare they are sufficient to
refute maudlin stories of the west regarding the down trodden woiBen of
Japan, As a rule such stories are as absurd as they are untrue, even of the
time I an writing.
Early in 1876 I took up my residence at Sapporo and rewained
there until the Kaitakushi was abolished early in 1883.
- I EXPERIENCE SHEEP RAISING AND SUGAR BEET CULTURE
In the meantime I had induced the authorities to order 400
thoroughbred Merino ewes with a sufficient nu 蘭 ber of rams fro* America.
They arrived in splendid condition early in the spring of 1876. One half
were placed in Nanai, already mentioned, the other half I took under my own
special care as I wished to test carefully the possibility of wool growing
in Hokkaido as it seeemed to me to have an i 議 portant bearing on the future
prosperity of the country. In the beginning we were sadly handicapped by
want of proper pasturage but Managed to keep them in fair condition until
two years later we had got 150 acres of fine land near Sapporo well sodded
with blue grass. After this I had no trouble with the* at all. Within
four years I had increased our flock to as many as our pasture would carry.
By careful selection in breeding, reiaorselessly cutting out every ewe not
up to the mark I had set, I increased the average yield of unwashed wool
froM ten pounds per fleece, their record in the United States, to nearly
twelve pounds. By careful experiment with over twenty plots of the
better kinds of foreign grasses I ascertained that any grass that flouri-
a
shed in England or America would do eq^ly well in Hokkaido provided
equally suitable soil was provided. I established beyond doubt that sheep
-32-
would thrive well in Hokkaido if properly handled and always provided
suitable soil could be secured for the growth of the kinds of grass neces-
sary for their well being. Hhat I reported for Hokkaido was equally true
in regard to all northern Japan. I also gave the cost of keep in Hokkaido
where the ground for six Months in the year is covered with snow froo three
to ten feet in depth, as coapared with that in «ore favored lands, Australia
the sheep districts of western Anerica and southern South America in all
of which there was no extra expense for winters keep. I pointed out that
the cost of producing wool at Sapporo was three or four tines greater
than the cost of the ssne article iMported fro« Australia as reported in
the Yokohama aarket. Also after a few years residence in Hokkaido I ascer-
tained froM trips through and aliK>st around the island and more particu-
larly froM the able reports of the survey departaent, geographical, geological
and topographical [,] that at least 90X of the island ms unfit for culti-
vation of any kind owing to the very Mountaneous character and the exten-
sive areas 1 destroyed by volcanic ash for agricultural purposees. There
remains the river valleys and those of svaller streaas that are subject
to yearly overflow and thereby enriched by deposit together with a very
linited area of heavily tiabered foot hill and low lying lands that can be
classed as faming lands. In short there are less than 2,000,000 acres
capable of cultivation in the entire island. So I concluded and so repor-
ted that the idea of extensive sheep raising in Japan should be abandoned.
That the arable lands of Hokkaido as mil as of Japan proper were nore ur-
gently needed for the production of food for the people than for the
growing of grass for sheep* Particularly so as wool could always be iwpor-
ted for much less than it would be produced in Japan. And furthenwre it
seemed doubtful if the Japanese would ever take kindly to mutton as a
food. The grass covered Mountain slope of Japan, so beautiful frow a distan-
-33-
ce and the verdure of which seems sufficient to afford pasturage for
countless herds and flocks is in reality of little value as pasturage.
The grass is coarse and contains but little nutriment. It does not appear
until Nay and dies in October or early Novenber when the autuwi rains wash
away what little nutriment it ever contained and leave it a iiass of value-
less straw.
I have been perhaps prolix in discussing this subject, my excuse
is a purpose in view. Recently (1920) articles have frequently appeared in
the vernacular and foreign press relative to the government's intention
to encourage sheep raising in every way in order to aake Japan independent
of foreign countries in regard to wool. Only a few days since an article
appeared in the Japan Advertiser to the effect that a neiiber of the
Australian legislation had introduced a Bill [sic] to that body prohibiting
the export of sheep from Australia to Japan in order to prevent serious rival-
ry in one of Australia's most valued industries. If the Australian
stateman [sic] had been well informed on the subject, his bill would probably
have read "to encourage the export of sheep to Japan where an unexpected
demand for them might soon arise for a purpose impossible of fulfilment
and that could only result in the enrichment of Australian ranchers
at the expense of Japan." What has become of the 鶴 any reports on this
question I made to the authorities I do not know. Probably they are no
longer in existence. It all reminds me so forcibly of a si 鬭 ilar incident
that occurred in Hokkaido that I venture to relate it.
In 1878 the Kaitakushi requested Mr. Brooks, Professor of
Agriculture in the college and myself to make an experimental study of
sugar beet culture with a view to the introduction of the beet sugar indus-
try provided our report was favorable. Mr. Brooks and wyself secured a
quantity of the seed of a dozen or more of the nost popular variety of
beets. These seeds were divided between us and plan tea in plots of land
-34-
especially selected for the purpose and cultivated in the nost approved
nanner. All sorts of fertilizers were used, large quantities on soae of
the plots, less on other and on a few none at all. These experinents
were continued for three years in succession. Every Means that we could
think of being tried to get the best results possible. Hundreds of sanples
fn» the different plots were carefully analyzed and reported upon. The
best result obtained during the three years of experiments was about
11% of sugar. The percentage ranging down fro* that figure to 6Z and 72.
In France, beets that show less than 15 or 15% of sugar in the laboratory
are considered unprofitable to 鵬 ill, and then what re«aiits of the beets
after passing through the rollers is utilized as food for cattle. Our
failure to get better results were doubtless, owing to the Hokkaido cliMate
which is too cold for the developaent of a high percentage of sugar.
Our final report utterly condemned the sugar beet project and
the Kaitakushi officials had sufficient confidence in us to accept our
finding as final. Within three or four years after this the Kaitakushi had
ceased to exist and the new governnent of the island had ordered a beet
sugar Mill, costing a 黼 illion yen which was placed at Usue Mo»betsu near
Huroran. and contracts Mere sade with the faners for a supply of beets.
But nore extraordinary still, before getting any results whatever fro* the
Usue HoMbetsu venture Machinery costing about two millions of yen,
was ordered for a much larger Mill to be erected at Sapporo. After a few years
of disnal failures the Usue nonbetsu mill shut down. As for the Sapporo
矚 ill the machinery was never even put into place. It would almost seem
to indicate a tendency of Japanese character to reject any advice no natter
how well founded it may be, that conflicts with their wishes of ill fomed
conclusions. I an disposed to attribute it to their optimistic te«pera«ent
that prevents the recognition of even the inpossible.
鍾 K + ADVENTURES -
We established in nany parts of the island breeding far»s in
-35-
addition to the purely experimental agricultural station at Sapporo which
was transferred to the agricultural college. In addition to the sheep
pasture already mentioned we had a hog ranch where all the best breeds of
America and Europe were bred. At Makonanai about five miles fro*
Sapporo we had a cattle ranch and dairy in connection with which 200
acres of wild land was cleared out and cultivated in corn, hay and various
kinds of roots as food for the cattle. At Izari about thirty miles from
Sapporo we enclosed a fine bit of native pasture land about 2. 000 acres
in extent for the use of sone of our horses* At Niicappu 110 miles from
Sapporo we established our great stud fan and ranch for the inproveiient
of Hokkaido horses by crossing, in the first place, with selected stallions
from Nanbu and then with foreign stallions and native nares selected fro*
the first cross between Hokkaido nares and Nanbu stallions. In the
Chibichari valley adjoining the nain ranch we secured about 300 aroac of
fine bottom land which we got under cultivation to supply winter food
for our foreign stallions nares and half breeds. The main ranch contained
about 35,000 acres divided by post and rail fencing into ten or a dozen
separate enclosures. In assisting in the laying out of this ranch I
spent two weeks in camp where [sic] as there were no available houses that
could be used as head quarters. The Niicappu river bounded the western side
of the ranch and Chibichari river the eastern. Its nearest point to the sea
Mas then ten miles distant and it was about fifteen miles in extreme length
and varies in width from two to five or six miles. The only people near it
were a few Ainu living in huts along the two rivers. The southern part
of the ranch is of high but almost flat grass land fifty or sixty feet
above the rivers. It gradually changes into rolling then hilly land that
terminates in the foot hills of a lofty mountain at the northern end of the
ranch. All of the northern part is wooded and covered with a dense growth
of scrub bamboo from two to five feet in height which is an excellent
winter's food for the hardy Hokkaido pony. We stocked our ranch with 1,000
-36-
selected Hokkaido i»res and placed with the* about fifty of the best
Naabu stallions that could be fnrocured. Four thoroughbred stallions were
imported for 議 America which, together with "Don" 黼 y Tokio pet covered 200
specially selected native aares. These were kept in the hone paddock, near
the center of the ranch, where stables and dwelling houses for the Manager
and the Men were erected* In due tine about 90% of the Bares bred to Naabu
stallions were found to be with foal whereas about 40% of those bred to
our inported stallions becane pregnant. This great discr^iancy was doubt-
less owing to the difference in tenperanent of the native and thorough-
bred.
This shyness in crossing led ne to believe it would be easier to
introduce a foreign breed of horses by importing both Hale and feaale than
to attenpt to iaprove the native by crossing with foreign blood. But at
the sa»e tiae I becane convinced that the native horse that could be
greatly inproved by careful selection was the very best aniaal for the
general needs of the Japanese people. For nilitary and carriage as well as
racing and riding purposes a better horse is desirable, but the breeding of
this class of horses should be kept separate and entirely distinct fron
the wants of the faraer and general run of the Japanese people. However,
we had 70 or 80 half breds and over 500 native colts to show at the end of
our first year. But to our horror we discovered that wolves with wnich
that part of Hokkaido was at that tine infested seemed competent to devour
horse flesh rather faster than we could produce it. One lot of 90 »ares
with foals had been placed in an enclosure to themselves, within a week
or ten days they were rounded up but not a colt was with the«. Every one of
the 90 had been killed; their bones were scattered all over the place.
Wolves + Grass hoppers
The Hokkaido wolf is a formidable beast but not dangerous to man
so long as other prey is to be had for the killing. During the winter
Months, at the time of which I am writing, they lived «ostly upon deer which
-37-
were very plentiful. During the sunner their diet was principally horse
meat. A full grown wolf weighs froM 70 to 80 pounds, he has an enoinous
head and mouth armed with tremendous fangs and teeth. He is generally very
lean but exceedingly nuscular. Of a grey color in snwrner and greyish white
in winter, when his fur is thick and long. His feet are remarkable for
their size, three or four tines larger than the feet of the largest dog
which they resemble in shape, only the claws are much longer. Their large
feet enable them to travel rapidly over deep snow that soon tires a
fleeing deer that could easily run away from his eneny when the grouno is
bare. They usually hunt singly or in couple but frequently the trail of
a pack of four or five or even nore is seen in the snow. They are widely
scattered throughout the island as a rule but few in any one neighborhood.
Doubtless the large number of horses we had confined in a limited area
attracted then fron near and far. After killing the colts in the outlying
pastures it was not long before they began on the mothers* In fact the
situation becane so serious that it was up to us to exteniinate the wolves
or go out of the horse breeding business at Niicappu. As it was
hopeless to attempt to hunt then down we sent to Tokio and Yokohana for
all the strychnine to be had and fearing there was not enough for our
purpose in those places, sent a supplementary order to San Francisco for
more. We succeeded in getting enough to poison every living thing on the
island.
We went to work systematically. We organized a patrol of about
twenty horsemen each of theM had his daily route assigned to hi«. Each
would be supplied with chuncks of poisoned meat to be dropped at likely
places and with a snail bottle of strychnine to be used in case of which
there were many, the carcass of a murdered horse or colt was found. In such
case the neat remaining would be deeply slashed and a liberal allowance
of our seasoning sprinkled within it. The success of our systematic work
-38-
Mas iMnediate and within a few Months complete.
A wolf cannot resist the teiq>tation of a bit of ran neat and
although he nay not relish the flavor that strychnine iaparts he probably
has enough of it in his inside to do its deadly work before he realizes
that it is not to his liking. The first day's bag was five or six dead
wolves found, probably others slunk away to die in places where they could
not be found. Their bodies would usually be found near the poisoned carcass
or bait, where if undisturbed they would reaiain gorging themselves until
the deadly stuff began to work and it works very quickly. Often they
would be found near water where they had gone to quench the terrible
thirst the poison creates. Our first day's bag was our best. A few were
bagged every day for a week or ten days, then only one or so occasionally*
Then for weeks our bag would be nil until, finally the beasts were wiped
out. So within one suMier and aut 画 we were freed from a pest that in the
spring seeded very threatening to our enterprise. Hundreds of dead foxes
croMs and an occasional Ainu stray dog were found near our plants which
was of course unavoidable.
番
After this the work at Niicappu was easy and fairly successful
with the exception of one suimer when the entire southern coast of the
island and for nany Miles inland was visited by enormous swanis of locusts
that destroyed every green plant they happened to settle on. It was the
sane insect that occasionally visits the western states of the United
Sates as well as many other parts of the world. It has been known for
thousands of years as the curse of Egypt on account of the utter des-
truction of every green thing in the places it visits. On hearing of
the visitation I at once left Sapporo for Niicappu. I first observed the
extraordinary phenomenon on reaching an extensive sandy plain about fifty aiiles
distant froa Niicappu. Above as far as the eye could reach the air was
filled with glistening wings. When I rode on to the plain I found the
-39-
insects were dropping in countless millions. The ground was black with
then, in places they were a squiraing Mass several inches deep. The feaales
had selected this plain as a suitable place for depositing their eggs.
The plain was about five 矚 iles in length and fro« one to two Miles wide.
I rode through its entire length. It was all the sane frow one to the
other. On «y return the swam of locusts had left but every inch of that
great sandy plain was pitted and each pit contained from fifty to one
hundred eggs that hatched out with the first wani days of the following
spring. From this place on to Niicappu I passed under and through several
similar sHanis. Upon «y arrival I found that continuous swar«s had passed
over the place but, as yet, none had settled there. But the next day they
settled on our farm in enotnous quantities. At the tine we had 100 acres
of splendid corn in roasting ear and a field of 50 acres of neadow from
which, fortunately, the grass had been gathered but which was covered
with a fine aftergrowth. Within a few hours after the swarm settled every leaf
on the tall corn stalks was gone and the ears of corn entirely denuded
of their covering husks « The meadow grass was entirely eaten to the ground
which was as bare as it was before seeding. I walked through the com
field while the little devils were having their lunch. Every corn stalk,
every blade, was black with than and wherever I placed wy foot dozens
were crushed into a nasty mess. I was literally walking on insects not on
the ground. Without seeing it no one can imagine the enorwous quantities
of living things appearing at any spot in so short a time. The habits
and history of the locust or grass hopper is an extrewely interesting
story but too long for n»e to tell. After my experience with then I read
all the literature on the subject that I could find* The records of the
U.S. Department of Agriculture of the tine I am writing are very complete
and extremely interesting reading for any one interested in insect life.
-40-
- Travels in the Interior -
The looking after our aany live stock establislMents was by
no Means a slothful job. As there Mas no other weans of getting about
I spent fully one half of my business hours in the saddle. When I first
visited Sapporo the department paid all traveling expenses of the foreign
enployees. They were allowed to take with then a cook and boy at govern -
nent expense and were supplied with table linen, knives and forks and all
sorts of food. A paysaster accospanied the* and also acted as their
interpreter. They were expected to nake ten ri - 25 鶴 Ues - per day. The
retinue of a geologist or nining expert, for instance, on inspection tours
resenbled that of a dai 颺 yo traveling to visit the Shogun. While very
comfortable this sort of getting about did not suit ay book at all, so I
applied for the saae traveling allowance paid to Japanese officers
according to their rank and salaries. My request was readily granted and
it not only saved a lot of trouble but also a considerable sun of Money.
I made my own arrangenents accordingly. At Niicapu I fixed up a rooM of my
own where I kept all sorts of supplies including extra clothing. At a few
other places I kept a few things that would cone in handy in case I was
obliged, for any reason, to break the journey. When called upon to nake
distant trips of several days even weeks if my route was through parts
inhabited by Japanese, if the distance Mas not great, three or four days, my
supplies consisting of coffee, a little sugar, lots of tobacco and an
extra flannel shirt, were carried in 観 y saddle bags and a blanket and water
proof strapped behind My saddle* On longer journeys I took with ne an
Ainu who carried extra supplies on his horse. Trips in the interior of
which I made several, where not even an Ainu hut would be seen at days
for a tine, required two pack horses to carry a snail tent and other
necessaries if the route was by land, if by river Ainu canoes sinplified
things very 麵 uch. Former experiences had taught ne the value of traveling
light when "roughing it* was necessary. So even on the inland trips I
-41-
always found the very liberal allowance made m by the governaent wore
than sufficient to neet all expenses. The inland trips were delightful
when the weather was fine, abominable when bad. I always took both rifle
and shot gun with ne and imnaged to keep the larder supplied with fresh
meat. Occasionally a deer, always quantities of willow grouse
in the woods and Mandarin duck along the streams. On one occasion I was
following up a small stream in quest of ducks when I was startled by a
large wolf junping out of sone high grass within ten feet of «e. Before
he had got twenty yards away I had given him both barrels of duck shot in
his behind. It seened only to accelerate his retreat. The last I saw of hi 黼
his bushy tail was whirling around like the propeller of an aeroplane.
Bear signs were always plentiful and they would prowl around the canp
in the most impudent manner at night. On one occasion when on a ten days
canoe trip up the Ishikari river with my friend Mr. Boeh«er, a tremendous
fellow judging from his tracks in the sand passed, twice around our tent and
between it and our party of Ainu who were sleeping outside within
twenty yards of it. We occasionally sighted one in daylight but they
always managed to get away before we could get in a shot. During my eight
years in Hokkaido only once did I come to close quarters with a bear*
He was badly wounded and in a very bad humor when I managed to get in his
way. By a lucky shot from a heavy Remington rifle the subsequent pro-
ceedings interested him no more. He was about the size of a cow.
S
As an instance of tough work that sometimes came in My way
I venture to tell of a rough ride that I shall never forget. I was at
home one very wet night enjoying a book and cigar when, at about, ten
o'clock a visitor was announced. When he was shown in, I recognized one
of our best young wen stationed at Niicappu* The poor chap was so
-42-
played out he could hardly stand or speak. I gave hiM a stiff drink of
whisky. After its desired effect, he told ae he had left Niicuppu that
Morning, that our best thoroughbred stallion "Dublin" was very ill and that
he Mas sent by tiie aanager to ask Me to co«e at once. I felt sure ny going
was useless as the horse would be either well or dead before I could
reach there. But there was an off chance that I night be in tiae to help
and as the horse had cost $5,000 in Aiierica, I decided that I could not
disregard the urgent request to cove. After instructions to feed the
young man and put him to bed, at about eleven o' clock I was off on my 110
矚 ile ride. It Mas raining torrents and continued to do so the entire
night. I was riding a powerful native horse of ny (»m that on a good road
could sake an eight or nine 矚 iles an hour for 25 or 30 矚 iles. The road
for the first 25 鳙 iles was of clay and in horrible condition. It took
Me six hours to cover it. This brought He to Chitose where I had a good
breakfast and left 齲 y own horse, changing to a goveriaent post horse.
Here I realized the utter folly of the job I had undertaken but a sense
of duty and pride sent ne on.
The road fro* Chitose entered a piuiice region and was good until
I reached the sand dunes near the sea. At Yufutsu on the sea which I
reached about noon I had soae food, changed horse again and was off again
within half an hour after arrival. I was then 45 "iles fron Sapporo and
began to feel the effects of the all night ride without sleep. Ten 爾 iles
further on, where I changed again, the road follows the beach which is hard
and good tine can be nade if horse and rider are in good tria, but only
one half of ay ride was finished and I realized that I could not aake the
other half. I got along fairly mil for the next 20 or 25 wiles changing
horses twice. After that it was a nightnare. How I managed the next 20 觏 iles
I do not reneMber. I rode on half asleep never fully awake, suffering
terribly froa chafed legs caused by the wet that had found its way through
-43-
ny water proof. About 8 p.n. I reached Chibichari 100 miles from Sapporo
and 10 miles from the ranch. Here I net Mr. lyani, our Manager, He and the
inn keeper helped me off and half carried me into the house. How is *Dub"
I asked. All right, replied lyani. After that I could only renenber
drinking some whisky hot, eating something, then oblivion for twelve hours.
The next morning with the exception of being very stiff and
the absence of some square inches of skin from my hind parts, I was
feeling fairly fit again. With a "futon" over 翻 y saddle I Managed to wake
the remaining ten niles on the ranch where I found Dublin looking bright
and cheerful. He had had a very bad attack of colic. Doubtless he
kicked up a devil of a row while it lasted which was for a few hours only.
Before and since then I have Hade the ride from Sapporo to the ranch and
vice versa in one day without extreme fatigue but always a saki bure
(messenger) was sent ahead the day before to have good horses ready at
every post station and, moreover, I never started unless the weather was fine
and, finally, most inportant of all, I had always a good night's rest before
starting. Even under the Host favorable conditions I never nade the ride
in less than eighteen or nineteen hours including an hour's rest at noon,
I was sadly handicapped by 顏 y weight, about 185 pounds at that tine. A
rather big load for a Hokkaido pony. A Japanese friend of 鴯 ine in charge of
the stud at Nanai, and one of the finest horseiien I have ever met, would
cover the same ground that I did in one third less tine* But his weight was
under 100 pounds. My record tine between Sapporo and Nanai, 30 hours, is bet-
ter than his but entirely owing to a steaM boat waiting for ne at Huroran
to take ne across Volcano bay to Hori. And also to the fact that ny
friend Hakodate never being in too great hurry to prevent hi 画 from
loitering at any place where the "sake* was to his liking or where a
pretty girl showed up. The life I led kept ne as hard as iron and I
-44-
hardly knew what sickness was. On one occasion, however, I was overtaken
by a severe diarrhea when fifteen Miles on my way hoMeward bound, from
Niicapu. There was a young nan with me at the time »bom I sent ahead. I
cautioned him to say nothing to My wife, as I knew it was nothing serious,
but to tell her that I was detained by business. She, suspecting from his
Manner that something was wrong, got the whole story froM hi 難 within five
minutes and nade her arrangements accordingly. She ordered 議 y Ainu hunter
to have horses ready before daylight next Horning and to acconpany her.
She Mas a light weight even for a Japanese Monan and the Ainu was not «uch
■ore* They Bade the 95 niles to where I was stopping under 15 hours. I
was surprised indeed when she walked into my roon as spry as you please.
I was about all right again but decided to stay over a couple of days to
give My wife a rest and witness > with her, an interesting Ainu festival
that Mas taking place close by. It Mas a yearly affair that takes place
when the salnon conwence running up the rivers. Close by our honj in - a lar-
ge inn established by the governinent for the accoanodation of travelers -
the Niicapu river enters the sea. The festival was held on a large sand
bank between the river and sea. The only ornanental part of it consisted
of hundreds of peeled stakes driven into the sand along the river and sea
beach. The stakes were shaved from the top half way down into a aass of
shavings that fomed a festoon like heads [sic] to each stake. The festiv-
ities were kept up all day and most of the night when bon fires were kept
blazing at nany places. They consisted in the first place of all the men
getting drunk and keeping in that condition as long as they had a sen in Mo-
ney or credit to buy "sake". There were over 100 of them. They would form
circles, Men and woHen clasping hands and hop around the ring chanting
all the tine. These chants or songs were rather pleasing to the ear,
particularly the voices of the woMen were soft and clear. When 'y wife
and self appeared on the scene we were at once set upon for a contribu-
-45-
tion to replenish their store of "sake" which was running low. We got
in their good graces by a sufficient contribution to buy two kegs and
thereafter had the run of the camp as honored guests. After we had seen
enough of the performance and our curiosity was soon satisfied, a party of
about 30 accompanied us back to the Honjin and had a special dance, in
front of the hotel in our honor. It was not until I had sent out another
keg of "sake* that we finally got rid of then. With their extra prize they
went trooping back to their conrades. In crossing the river on their
return one of the overloaded canoes capsized* the river was deep and rapid
but all. Men and women, old and young, swa 矚 ashore like ducks, or perhaps
more like water dogs. Next morning we left for hone going as far as Chi lo-
se, 70 miles where we spent the night. My wife acconpanied ne frequently
in short trips and became a good horsewooan. She was never afraid and had
a good seat and gentle but firm hanas.
- The Ainu -
In 1884 the number of Ainu in Hokkaido was estimated at about
100,000. Only a small rennant of earlier days. The center of population
was at Saru on the south coast where there were seven villages which had
been large, but when I visited that place had dwindled until there were
only a few hundred huts left. Their hereditary chief, Penre, had lost all
r
semblence of dignity. He was a fine looking old chap but a great djinkard.
Whenever we met he always tapped me for two yen for "sake", he was perfectly
satisfied with that amount but not with a sen less. As the Saru river
swarmed with salmon trout in the season, I frequently fishea it and
considered the two yen well spent in securing the good will of the old
villain and his villagers. The Ainu has many good qualities, they are
gentle and faithful and not lacking in courage, are excellent fisher«en.
hunters and horsemen but soon tire of steady employment. In olden times
they occupied alvost all of Japan, certainly further south than Kyoto as
善
the naaes of rivers and places testify to this day. They had, in all
probability invaded Japan froa the north cosing fro* Siberia and perhaps,
Kanchatka, Sakhalin and Hokkaido into Japan proper. They found a race of
people, called the Koro Pok Goro or pit dwellers, according to Ainu
tradition, occupying Hokkaido and northern Japan. These aborigines were
gradually driven south by the Ainu who in turn were driven north by the
Japanese. In their palny days the Ainu seen to have been well governed.
For a pri 黼 itive people their laws and custoMS were excellent. Tneir aorals
would* perhaps, compare favorably with those of soiie so-called hignly
civilized people of today. When finally subdued by the Japanese, they
gradually degenerated. Reduced to a condition of servitude, their spirit
as a people was broken and *sake* and disease did the rest. Before the
resotration the coast and rivers of Hokkaido were dividea into fishing
districts which were sold to the highest bidder by the governaent. The
fishing privileges included services of the Ainu living in the
respective districts. This fon of slavery was done
away with after the restoration.
But even the debauched rennant of this one tine aost interes-
ting people still have excellent qualities. I always had one or two Ainu
in my employ to look after ay horses and as hunters. I always found then
faithful, honest and courageous. As hunters and trackers they equal
the American Indian. When on extended trips I always took with ne, for
their use, a sufficient quantity of "sake" of which I would leasure out to
each twice or three times a day what I considered sufficient. They always
seened satisfied with what I gave then, never asking for
more. As trackers of wounded deer they are invaluable. After the deer
has made off they would always wait to give the poor beast ti«e to weaken
from loss of blood. Then they would follow the trail unerringly. A
drop of blood here, a broken weed or a foot print that I would not notice
-47-
at all was sufficient guide for then. After a tine they would notice
indications that the aninal was seeking a place in which to lie dotm. then
they would beckon me to cone up close. Sonetines the poor creature would
be found dead in its lair, generally it had enough vitality left to aake
another try for liberty but a well planted bullet at close quarters
usually finished the business. As for their courage I reneMber one
occasion when I had been out deer hunting with «y pet Ainu* On the second
day it set in to rain violently. The next morning Me started for hoa»«
much to my disgust, when we reached the Toyohira river we found the bridge
down, at one end, in the water. Below the bridge there Mas a wide and easy
ford at ordinary times but, although the water had subsided very much it
was still running very strong. While I was confident the very powerful
horse I was riding could get across without difficulty it was a different
matter for the small pony the Ainu was riding. So I bade him wait until
the water ran down and I would cross alone. I rode in and was nearly
across when I heard a cowRotion behind Me. I looked back and saw ay
Ainu and his pony rolling down stream at an alarning rate of speed.
Finally they both landed safely on the Sapporo side. I asked the Ainu why
he had disobeyed my orders. His reply was "Where the mishipo (naster)
goes Ainu follow". When he saw ne in nid strean he knew perfectly well
from the fact that my big horse was having about all he could do to keep
his feet that his little pony could not possibly get across on his feet.
He did cross but landed on the other side 200 yards below his starting
place and was a very delapidated looking Ainu when he did so.
They get about when hunting without making the least noise.
They wear deer skin Moccasions and never speak. Their comunications are
all by signs. I used the sane foot gear until I got sone Canadian moccasions
which are the best foot gear in the world for a hunter. Anything in the
shoe or boot line is an abomination. The Ainu are poor marksmen owing to
never having had a decent gun to shoot with. All they had then was a snooth
-48-
bore Muzzel loading carbine with twenty four inch barrel that carried
a round ball of an ounce in weight. At 30 yards it is deadly, at 40 uncer-
tain and at 50 no good at all. No Ainu mould drem of taking a chance shot
even at a deer 60 yards amy. When they saw that I rarely, if ever, failed
at 125 yards and generally got home at 150 or 200, they looked upon ay
shooting as so«e thing Marvelous. On two occasions I Bade flukes that
flabbergasted the«. One was a running buck that I 讓 issed twice and brought
doHD with the third shot at 325 yards when running at full speed. The
second was a buck standing in an open snow covered plain 450 yds fro« te.
As there was no possibility of approaching nearer I took an off hand shot
at bin. He fell in his tracks, dead. I was just about as wich surprised
as the Ainu standing by me but passed it off as nothing unusual. The
heads of these and that of a third all secured on the sane outing
I kept for years over my front door at Sapporo. The third buck was running
directly fro 麵 ne and about 125 yds distant when I fired. He ran on for 75
or 100 yds, when he dropped dead. The 50 calibre bullet had struck hi 颺
fairly in the buttock, passed entirely through hin lengthwise and out
at his neck. When we cut him up we found that in its passage the bullet
had laid open one ventricle of the heart. I had known before that a deer
could, at tines, run away with enough lead in him to have dropped a bear
in his tracks but had never heard of such vitality as was shown in this
instance.
- Instances of Man's Vitality -
As regard to vitality nan seeas to be well endowed with it as
any of the lower aniaals. In 1878 or 79 two Englistnen, Sir R. Beauchamp
and a Mr. Wilson cane to Hokkaido to get soae deer shooting. They arrived
in January and aade caap at a place near Bibi about 30 讓 iles south of
Sapporo. It was very cold and the snow was from 2 to 3 feet deep. Deer
Mere scarce and difficult to approach. One morning Hr. Wilson got on the
-49-
track of a deer which he followed for several hours. Finally sonetine in
the afternoon he succeeded in killing his deer but in following its trail
in many directions was conpletely lost. The sky t^ing over cast and not
being provided with a coMpass, he had no means of detemining his position,
A prudent nan in his position would have followed back on his own trail
no natter hoM crooked it was, but he, not realizing his danger, struck out in
what he thought was the direction to canp. The result was disastrous. He
wandered about all night* It was very cold, several degrees below zero and
he knew that his only chance was to keep Moving* He kept on the next day
until evening when becoains entirely exhausted his last recollection was
grasping a snail tree and Nalking around it in a last effort to keep awake.
In the mean time his cosrade had been searching for liin since early Mor-
ning, now and then firing his gun in the hope of Wilson hearing it. As night
approached Beauchaap gave up in despair of finding hi 羅 and started back
for caflip with the intention of going to Bibi for help. When within a nile
of camp he fired his gun again and iiiagined he heard a faint cry near at
band. He hastened to the spot indicated by the call and to his great joy
found Wilson lying on the ground in an almost senseless state. Beauchawp
must have been a very powerful man for he got Wilson on his back and
carried him to their canp alaost a 矚 ile distant. Wilson had no recollec-
tion of hearing Beauchamp's last shot nor of calling out. He 'ust have
been in a subconscious condition when he did so. It was one of the nearest
things that I ever heard of. Wilson must have been ten or twelve miles
from canp when he killed the deer. In his atteapt to reach it he wandered
in many directions for 24 hours. By «ere chance he got within a mile of it
when he gave out conpletely. By an alnost equal chance BeauchaMp passed
near the place where Wilson was lying and at just the right moment fired
off his gun and elicited a cry fro« the alnost unconscious man. Another
hour and Wilson would have been dead. On hearing of the mishap I rigged up
-50-
a Russian sledge with a Mattress on it and brought Wilson to Sapporo Hhere
he had every attention. He was lodced after by Dr. Cutter, chief of the
Sapporo hospital. He was badly frozen and lost all of his toes and part of
one foot. He was frozen in Many other places whidi aade deep and painful
wounds but he took it all sniling without a coaplaint or, seemingly, without
a regret.
The sane or the next year a still More remarkable case of surviving
occurred. On the 29th of March two men and a boy of fifteen or sixteai left
the Military settlenent at Ebetsubuto very early in the noming for Sapporo
15 黼 iles distant. They expected to reach Sapporo before noon and took only
a lunch with thea. At that season of the year the snow Melts during the
day and freezes hard at night so that until about noon traveling on the
snow is first class. Even fox or horse sledge go over it without leaving a
trace: The party in question anticipated no difficulty in reaching
Sapporo. In fact the trip was nade every day by some of tiie villagers. But,
unfortunately this particular party ms overtaken by a blizzard before
going half the distance and were forced to seek shelter in a grove of
trees sone distance off the direct route. The blizzard proved to be a very
bad one. It continued all night and day. Much snow fell and it turned
intensely cold. The party were so badly frozen during the night that they
were helpless. They nanaged to crawl to a thicket of tall reeds through
which a snail brook of unfrozen water flowed. By using reeds as pipes
they Managed to suck up all the water they wanted but they were entirely
without food. To cut a long story short the two aen died within a week. The
boy was found alive 29 days after he had left his hone. His Howry of what
occurred for the first ten days see«ed to be quite clear. He saia that
after his conrades died foxes and crows fed on their bodies, he was too weak
to drive the« away. He Managed to get their clothing which kept hi 矚
-51-
f airly warm. The bodies of the men were nuch nutilated. I have often
wondered if that boy assisted the foxes and crows. He declared that all
he had was water to drink. Hho could blane the poor suffering wretch if
he helped hinself to soM^hing else? Dr. Cutter anputated both of his
legs below the knee. He also lost parts of almost all of his fingers. Dr»
Cutter's account of the case was published in an ARierican medical journal
of the highest standing. It can doubtless be found without difficulty
today. I saw the boy on several occasions after he was discharged fron the
hospital.
»
In addition to deer Hokkaido was pretty well stocked with small
game which afforded fairly good sport. But the finest sport of all was the
salmon trout fishing. During the season that the fish would take the fly
the sport was very fine. Captain Blakiston of Hakodate would join us
almost every year in fishing the Toyohira which was perhaps, the finest
river in the island for salmon trout. The fish ran fron 3 to 12 pounds
and in rapid water gave any one but a hog all the fun he could desire.
Blakiston was far and away the best of the lot in handling a rod. To see
him manipulating a two handed rod with bad ground back of hiM was a delight
in itself.
Blakiston was one of the most interesting men I ever met. A
delightful and instructive companion, a staunch friend to those who gained
his confidence, unapproachable to those he did not like. He had been a
captain of artillery in his country's service, was a veteran of the Crimean
war, was ordered to China in 1858 bringing out the first battery of Arm-
strong guns ever sent east of the Cape. He with a companion were the first
white men to ascend and pass beyond the rapids of the Yangstekyang, [sic] His
account of the trip published in book form, now out of print, is a most
interesting work. His Birds of Japan is still the standard work on the
-52-
subject.
Exteniination of the Peers [sic]
Hhen I first went to Hokkaido deer was very plentiful in all parts
of the island during Han weather. Nith the first big fall of snoN,
usually about the first of December, they aigrated in great herds to the
south and west coasts where the snow fall was 黼 uch less. In early Decea-
ber 1885 I Made a visit to one of their favorite winter feeding grounds.
I found the« coMing in in droves of fron a dozen to fifty* I selected and
shot four fat young bucks and cached the neat until our return. Afterwards
I spent the day sightseeing. With ny Ainu hunter we rode by Many herds
coning in. On horseback by gradually coming in on a herd passing through
wooded land I found we could approach within 40 or 50 yards without
causing alar 謂 • Had I desired I could have shot 50 without difficulty but
as I have always considered killing the nore gane than can be used as
sinple Murder I did not fire a shot. At such tine the Ainu get in their
work, laying in a store of neat and hides for winter use. After the deer
scattered in their winter quarters they were not so easy to approach.
The winters of 1878 - 79 were very severe. The snow extending
from coast to coast. Had they been unmolested the deer would have pulled
through without very great loss but unfortunately there was a great deaand
for hides and horns at that tine. The poor improvident Ainu could not
resist the tenptation of i mediate gain. The deer had collected in
thousands in the nost sheltered valleys and ravines where, owing to the
deep snow, the Ainu on snow shoes overtook then easily and slaughtered Many
tens of thousnads with clubs and dogs. In the Hukawa district alone - 15
niles by 5 - 75,000 skeletons were counted in the spring by wen sent by
the governnent to ascertain the loss. And the sane government did nothing
whatever to prevent the slaughter fro* being repeated the next year in a
less degree as there were fewer deer to kill. The result was practical
-53-
extemination. There were a few deer left but whereas before one could
always rely upon getting plenty of venison when on an outing, afterwards
tinned neats were in order. And the fool Ainu instead of delicious
venison was obliged to live entierly on dried fish and lily roots.
Second Visit of His Majesty.
In 1881 the Emperor visited Hokkaido accompanied by a large
nunber of dignitaries. I had the honor of accompanying hi 矚 to several
of our places which he wished to see. He had a beautiful half mile race
course in the Sapporo park where we arranged to have some races for His
Hajesty's pleasure. He had quite a number [of] half bred colts as well as
native ponies which had had sone previous training that showed up fairly
well. We also had several of our stud stallions there for His Majesty's
inspection. His Majesty expressed a wish to see Dublin in action and that
I should ride hin. At least I was so informed but I always believed the
suggestion had been aade to His najesty and he only approved it* In his
day Dublin had been one of Kentucky's crack race horses but of course
was entirely out of training. But he had had his daily exercise daily and
was not beefy. So I counted upon getting about 200 yards of fair speed
out of him but not more. I started him at a canter with two native
ponies leading about 200 yards ahead. I followed then around the first
turn and up the back stretch when I began to close in and was just behind
when we entered the hone stretch. I then let the old felloM go. He responded
like a colt, passed the ponies in three strides and the Emperor's stand
at fine speed considering his condition. Before reaching the next turn
I felt that Dublin was pimped so I pulled hi 觀 up and rode slowly around
the track to the Emperor's stand. Dublin had then got back his wind and
showed up finely, excited as he was with his gallop. Before this I had been
acting as judge of the races my box being entirely opposite His Majesty's
stand. After the races were over I was received by His Majesty who was
pleased to say he had enjoyed the sport very much.
-54-
THE SAPPOBO AGBICULTUBAL COLLEGE.
No one has a greater adairation for the Sapporo Agricultural
College than I and no one recognizes aore fully the good work it has
done for Japan. In proportion to its endoment I believe it has turned
out aore maa of aark than any other institution of learning in the country.
Hosts of its graduates are Ham friends of aine today and there is not
one of the* whoa I do not respect and esteea. Therefore I wish to state
enphatically that what I have to say regarding that adairable institution
is in no sense derogatory of the work it has already accoaplished and is
doing today.
FroB the ti«e of 議 y arrival in Japan until his retire«ent as
Chief of the Kaitakushi in 1881, my relations with General Kuroda were very
satisfactory to ne and I believe he regarded Me with respect ana estee*.
In the beginning I had Many interviews with him regarding agricultural
developnent and stock raising in Hokkaido. As we becane better acquainted
and perhaps, his confidence in ne increased, we frequently discussed other
questions relating to the develofiaent of the island that were foreign to
矚 y speciality. On one occasion I ventured to point out to bin the sad
condition into which the fisheries - by far the mst valuable industry
of Hokkaido at that tiw - were drifting. The terrible waste apparent to
the most casual observer and the alnost entire absence of goverment
control. I gave him a paper I had <m the New Poundland fisheries which, at
that tine yeilded about £15.000.000 annually, greatly due to the strict
control and supervision, whereas the entire Hokkaido fisheries including
the Kurile islands did not yield one twentieth of that aaount. The
enorHOus waste in the herring fisheries alone, Uie catch of which Mounted
to thousands of tons, alnost all of which was piled in enonous heaps
on the nearest beach, was boiled in great iron kettles and then placed in hand
presses and pressed into square cubes and shipped away as fish aanttre. The
oil pressed out was allowed to flow back into the sea. The almost complete
-55-
blocking of salnon and salnon trout fron their spaiming beds by the nets
and traps of the fisherven who were subject to no control whatever, I
also spoke of the reckless waste of valuable ti 講 ber also subject to no
control or supervision. In regard to My special work I said that while
well enough in its way it was not extensive enough to have much influence
throughout the island. I urged that all industries in Hokkaido should be
subjected to government control and supervision. But to be effective the
control should be exercised by nen who understood their business, otherwise
it would be worse than useless.
To neet the situation I suggested that a school be established
at Sapporo idiere practical instruction be given in the industries
indicated by thoroughly competent wen selected fro* abroad, that the tech-
nical instruction or class rooM work be li 觀 ited to the winter Months when
too cold for actual work in the field. In short my idea was a small school
of technology which could be enlarged to Meet the developwent of the
island. The above is a synopsis of several interviews with General Kuroda
who seeaed iapressed with 霞 y views and said they would be carefully consi-
dered and probably adopted with amplifications which night seen desirable.
General Kuroda returned to Tokio where he spent the greater part of his
time and I heard nothing more of the project for some Months when I
learned that the Japanese Minister at Washington had been instructed to
engage a number of professors for the purpose of establisning an indus-
trial school at Sapporo. There seens to have been but little left of the
project talked over with General Kuroda when it got to Washington. The
Minister evidently believed that what was wanted was an agricultural colle-
ge and in that belief selected the Amherst Agricultural College as
the best nodel obtainable. He engaged the services of Professor Clark, at
that time president of the Amherst College, and Professor Clark naturally
selected as his assistants a mwber of graduates of that institution to go
-56-
with him to Japan. Professor Clark, Mas an able Han, a good leader and
organizer of aen. Be case to establish a fac-si 鷗 ile of the taherst insti-
tution of learning at Sapporo and did it, perhaps iaproved on the original.
The practical instruction given in an Anerican agricultural college is
very little. The great Majority of students of such institutions are sons
of farners and are well instructed in all practical fan work before they
enter the college. They go there to get technical knonledge uiK>btaiiiable at
ho«e. The agricultural college supplies this want and is, therefore, of the
utmost importance in any faming comunity, where as a rule the ignorance
of high faming is astonishing, but in Japan such institutions are valueless.
There is no Material to Hork with. In the first place the sons of Japanese
farwers do not attend college and if they did the Methods of agriculture in
the two countries are so different that, excepting the value and appli-
cation of fertilizers, the teaching of the Aaerican institution could have
but snail results. It is true we were atteapting to introduce American
Methods into Hokkaido but that could only be acconplished by practical
work in the field. The Sapporo Agricultural College* as an educational
institution Mas a success froM the start. It was well conducted by very
competent men. Its carefully selected students fron the southern schools
were intellectually and aorally of a very high class. Under Presidents
Clarkt Penhallow, Brooks and lastly, under the able guidance of President
Sato, it has beco«e a nost adnirable institution of learning and has well
earned its present rank as university. But in so far as its influence and
effect upon the industries of Hokkaido are concerned it Might just as well
have been located in Tokio or any other place in Japan proper. My object
was, exclusively, the developnent of the industries of Hokkaido. President
Clark's, the foundation of an institution of learning. He succeeded. I did
not. As a result the fisheries yield but a tithe of what they did then, the
beautiful forests of valuable timber that covered the entire island 【that] night
-57-
have been preserved as a store house for all Japan have been recklessly
Masted until but a rennant renains. But Sapporo has her university
at the cost of a great part of the wealth that nature gave the island.
But what of it? The college and university have always been aost highly
spoken of and President Clark is canonized as a benefactor of Japan gene-
rally and Hokkaido in particular. Who knows or cares what light have been
had the siiiple little school of connon sense been established instead of
the institution of learning? "What fools m Mortals be*.
While the story of the Sapporo Agricultural College is rather a so-
re Memory with me I feel that my work there has borne sone fruit in
improved Methods and products of faming and in better horses cattle and
swine.
- CoRNttuni cat ions - The Kaitakushi - Tundenhei + Fisheries -
In 1887 - 88 the Otaru Sapporo railway was built. Mr, J.U.
Crawford of the P.C.R.R. was selected for the work and proved himself to
be the right man in the right place. He infused energy and tea 園 work in
whatever he undertook. He was given five years to conplete the line.
He told General Kuroda he would do it within two and he did it. Before
the two years were up both passenger and freight trains were running on
schedule ti«e between Sapporo and Otaru. The cost of the line, including
rolling stock and stations was less than ¥23.000 per 園 ile. After he had
established Means of transport and conmunication he star tea in to straigh-
ten his line and improve it generally. He had with him as assistant
engineers a Mr. Brown, of California, a most competent Man and two young
Japanese engineers Messrs Natsumoto and Hirai, both of whom were practical-
ly unknown at that time, but in after years were in succession chiefs of the
Imperial Government Railways. After Crawford's return to the United
States Hatsumoto and Hirai completed the net work of railways as they are
practically today and which have done more for the prosperity of Hokkai-
do than all that had been done before. Crawford' s energy and ability
-58-
initiated a systea of push in raiinay construction in Hokkaido that tias
imparted to and never lost by his able successors.
If in the beginning General Kuroda had been wore fortunate in
the choice of his adviser capable of aaking a well fonralated plan for
the developnent of Hokkaido and had had the assistance of a Han like
Crawford to establish neans of coMunicatioa throughout the island*
the story of the Kaitakushi would have been far different froa what it is. At
that tine the leading aen of Japan had little knoHledge of conditions
abroad and practically, none at all of foreign industries. In all govern-
Ment undertakings foreign advisers were e^^loyed and, naturally, their
advice was accepted alaost Hi thou t question. General Kuroda went to
Hashing ton in search of a coapetent adviser to the Colonization
departaennt of Hokkaido and President Grant selected General Horace Capron
for the post. Probably the President did not realize in the least the
responsibility he incurred in (taking the selection. Perhaps he viewed it
only as an excellent opportunity to get rid of an occupant of an iipor-
tant government office and make a place for sone one of ■ore political
value. General Kuroda believed he had secured the very best aan possible
for the post. That General Capron must be a san of a high order of intel-
ligence and ability to have received the endorse«eat of the President of
the United States for an iMportant position in a friradly country that had
appealed to hi 黼 to «ake a suitable seiecticm. Instead of an able man upon
whose judgeaient he could rely, it was not long before the officials of
the Kaitakushi ascertained that they had secured a broken reed, an incom-
petent nan with no conception of the natural resources of Hokkaido or of
what was necessary for their developnent*
He had an able staff. Dr. Anticell, a prominent chenist of
Hashing ton; Dr. B.S. Lymann, a geologist and mining engineer of Philadelphia;
his assistant, Mr. S. Munroe; Lieut. Cow, M,S, Day, U.S.N, as chief of the
survey departaent [；] Mr. Boehner, a scientific and practical horticulturist
-59-
and Mr. Holt a thoroughly competent 議 illwright. But with such a chief
there was no possibility of tea 矚 work. Each «an was assigned to his special
little job and each endeavored to do it in the best of his ability. There
was no view in coMnon. The general development of Hokkaido did not cone
within their individual province. The pity of it! What a chance was
lost in not sending a big brainy nan instead of Capron! I have often
wondered if President Grant's conscience never troubled hi 禱 for the criwe
he perpetrated upon a friendly and trusting people, Aaericans have, with
reason, always boasted of the friendship shown by their country toMards
Japan. Has this act of their President a friendly one?
The gover 画 nt established Military settlement at several places
in Hokkaido. Each man was furnished with a confortable house, heated in
cold weather by a Russian stove, and given eight acres of land surrounamg
his house. These men - the Tundenhei or Military settlers - with their
families were of a very good class of pec^le and the best settlers of
Hokkaido today are perhaps their descendants. The Tundenhei were, of course
liable to be called out for military duty at any tine. They furnished a
regiwent to assist in suppressing the Satstwa Rebellion in 1877. They were
well drilled* armed and equipped.
The land in the Hokkaido capable of cultivation is very limited in
extent. I estimate it at no More than 10% of the whole. While of fine
mechanical structure and easily worked it is sadly lacking in fertility
when coMpared with the lands of the niddle and western states of the Uni-
ted States, In the latter regions the famrer is sure of securing twenty to
thirty crops without the use of an ounce of fertilizer on his land. In
large areas it is not even necessary to resort to rotation. In the former
he must have recourse to fertilizers after the second crop as a rule.
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The asricutural products of Hokkaido will never be wore than
sufficient to support its omd population and in the Batter of rice produc-
tion there will, in all probability, always be a deficit.
When I first went to Hokkaido the run of salBon up the princi-
pal streaas was enoraous. The Ishikari run was particularly great. In
addition to the hundreds of nets used day and night in fishing the
river itself, there was one very big one, More than a Bile in length, used
to fish the sea at the aouth of the river. Every Borning weather pemitting
it was carried out in large boats which cut across the line of greatest
run of fish and, after Making great circle, the end of it would be landed
near the starting place. The net was so long and heavy that it required
the entire day to iiake one haul but the catch was very large. I witnessed
the final stages of one haul and was informed it was a very good one. The
nuMber of salaon taken in that particular haul was over 12,000.
The fishing rights along the coast and up the rivers were sold
by the governaent to coMpanies over which no restraint nor control of any
kind Has exercised. Fewer and fewer fish reached their spawning beds and
year by year the runs decreased until the yearly catch was but a SMall
fraction of what it had been. Too late the goveri«ent realized that
the "goose" was about to be killed and established a fisheries coMission
to take control. The chief of the coMission was Hr. Katsutaka I to
an able and energetic nan. He established hatcheries on the head waters of
the Ishikari and introduced the large spring sal»on of ttie Colimbia river
and the king salnon of Siberia and Kanchatka. He also enforceed regula-
tions that peraitted the native fish to run up unnolested for a part of
the day, to their spawning grounds. The third and fourth year[s] after Mr.
I to started his work, showed noticeable results. Instead of the 12-15
pound native salmon, fish weight, 30 pounds or more were frequently taken.
Enough to d^nstrate that the rivers of Hokkaido could be restocked
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with far better fish than the native salmon if the government persisted
and extended the work started by Mr, I to. But at the end of the fourth
year the appropriation for the Hokkaido fisheries commission was
withdrawn and the conMission ceased to exist. All that reaains of Mr. Ito's
efforts are the records of a very interesting experinent.
- Warfare in Hokkaido -
The history of the revolution that ousted the Shogun and resto-
red the Imperial government tells us of Adniral EnoMoto's running away
froM Yedo Bay with the Shogun* s fleet to Hakodate where he established
himself and proclained a republican form of governiient for Hokkaido. His
position at Hakodate was very strong. The iMperial forces failed to dislod-
ge him by attacks from the north and he had entire connand of the sea.
General Kuroda conceived a plan of scaling Hakodate head froM the sea and
taking Enomoto in Uie rear. Hakodate head is 3,000 feet high and on the
seaside for half the distance up is almost unapproachable. Enonoto belie-
ving his position from that side unapproachable did not even have a guard
on the top of the head. Kuroda selected a dark night for his attenpt,
led a picked body of men up the seemingly unscalable side of the
mountain and down to the rear of the fort connand ing the bay. The
garrison were taken completely by surprise and surrendered almost
without firing a shot. This forced the surrender of the fleet. The terms
of surrender provided that the lives of Enomoto, his officers and men
should be spared. Enomoto and his officers were sent to Tokio and dis-
regarding General Kuroda' s pronise to then, Enomoto and
Generals Otori and Aral were condenned to death. Kuroda entered a strong
protest against the sentence and declared that if it was carried out he
would be obliged to connit harakiri to save his honor. After two years
spent in prison the condenned men were all pardoned. When General Kuroda
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was Made chief of the Kaitakushi he appointed Enow>to« Otori and Aral
to important posts in that department. I uy Mention that Coant Bayashi,
Many years afterwards aabassador to England and later ainister for
Foreign Affairs, mas a young officer in EmMoto's coMand. As Enoaoto, Otori
and Arai all spoke English fluently and were chanting gentlenen in every
way they were, naturally, very popular with all the Anerican employees in
the department. In after years I got to knoM Aduiral Enoaoto intiaately
and valued his friendship very highly.
In 1881 General Kuroda retired as chief of the Kaitakushi and
was succeeded for a short tine by Admiral Count Kawamira who in turn was
succeeded by Count, afterwards Marquis Saigo. As the Kaitakushi was
to be abolished at the eai of 1882. the work of the department Mas confined
to routine after the retirenent of General Kuroda. For a few years it
was administered by the central goveriwent until Ken govemiients were
established in Hokkaido.
So ended the Kaitakushi. While it acconplished enough to save
it fron being classed as a failure, it left undone so mich that «ight have
been acconplished that it cannot be classed as a success. The ten best
years of my life were spent in its service. Little to 矚 y personal advantage
but I treasure the thought that they were not altogether uselessly wasted
in the service of the people of Japan whom I had learned to esteen so highly.
At the expiration of my term of service His Iiiperial Majesty
was pleased to confer upon me the order of the fifth class of the Rising
Sun in recognition of my services.
In December 1882 I left Hokkaido with ny wife and daughter
spending the winter in Tokio and in visiting places of interest which in
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those days were, by no means as easy of access as they are today. I found
the Tokio Club newly established in the RokuMeikan and was elected a
menber there of. There I made hosts of friends with whom I was intinately
associated in after years.
- Vacation in Anerica -
After many consultations with ny wife it was decided that I
should go to Anerica with our daughter Helen, then five years of age, leave
her with my parents and sisters and if possible Rake a hone where I could
bring ny wife later on. Helen and I were received at ho«e with affectiona-
te welcome, not only by my own people but also by our nany relatives, all
still living at the old places* Helen soon became the pet of the fa«ily
and to me it was delightful to meet then all again. In the beginning
there was nothing to mar the joy of it, but in a short time I began to
realize that I was not the sane nan that had left then ten years before.
That the little place amongst then that I had always thought of as my own
no longer existed or, rather, that the man who filled it so nicely ten years
before was not the sane as he who came back to clai 觀 it* The boys and
girls with whom I had associated from childhood were middle aged people
with families of their own and the kids I had left in short skirts and
trousers were filling the places I had filled. While enjoying their
affection I felt that, of ny own Raking, I was a stranger a 顯 ong then.
My advice to any young man is: Never leave your own country with
the idea of making a permanent career in a foreign land with the intention
of returning home some day to enjoy the fruits of it. His love of coun-
try nay renain unimpaired, his glory in its progress as keen as when he
left it. In fact, I believe the exile's interest in his country's well
I being is, as a
rule, keener than that of the resident who accepts whatever comes as a
matter of course. But he who has lived long abroad will, on his return,
Bliss many little things that have become part of his life. He left before
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his habits had becoae fixed, when he returns he finds he cannot fit hiaself
in with what is to hi 騰 a new condition of things.
In Way 1883 I went west spending the suiwer in Oregon, Washing-
ton, Idaho and Montana. After spending soae tine at Portland, Seattle and
Tacona and visiting the limber region of Puget Sound, I aa^le Spokane Falls
ny headquarters, Making frequent visits fro« there throu^ the surrounding
country. As far north as the British Columbia line and as far away in
other directions, covering a great part of the Magnificent faming country
that was sparcely settled then but the best lands had been all pretty
well pre aipied. I nade Host of these trips by "buck board*. The greater
part of the tine I canped out as houses were few and far between and I
felt more independent and just as coaf or table with my cm outfit.
It never rains in that vast region fron May until November. Wherever wood*
water and grass are to be had the traveller has his night's lodging. He
stakes out or hobbles his horses, wakes his fire, cooks his bacon if nothing
better is in the larder, boils his coffee, rolls hinself in his blanket and
sleeps as he never slept under a roof. One night, in what is called the
'big bend country 霄 I nade canp on a snail tributary of the ColuMbia.
Shortly afterwards another party in a spring wagon, located for the night
quite near ne. After I had finished ny supper I strolled over to «ake
a call. Much to my surprise I found the outfit consisted of two very nice
looking young women. I soon ascertained that they were well educated, well
brought up and very intelligent. They were on a prospecting trip in search
of un located land where they could locate a hone for thenselves. Fhey
knew the west well and said they felt perfectly safe. Wen in that country,
no natter how bad in other respects, rarely Holest woiien. They were well
supplied with shooting irons also, which no doubt, they knew how to use.
They gave ne a cup of their coffee which I found ever so mich better
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than ny own. In return I brought tbem some prairie chickens I had shot and
returned to my own fire side.
- Our Trip to Loonlake -
In company with a cowboy of decidedly bad manners and a young
nan fro« the east I nade a trip to Loons lake, [sic] a fine sheet of water
about ten miles in length by five broad* The road to Ft Colville passes by
the western end of the lake. It is bounded on the north and south by
precipitous and very high Mountains. We were informed by an Englishnan> the
first white nan that had ever be^ there, that at the eastern end there ms
a valley of magnificent land which had not yet been surveyed. Hr. Absolen,
our infomant, said he had got to this garden spot by crossing the Moun-
tains to the north of the lake. That although the climbing in places was
pretty tough, he had got over in one day without very great difficulty. So
we three hired a two horse spring wagon and driver and started one morning
in July, for Loonlake, seventy Riles north from Spokane Falls, The road was
good and we made camp on the lake before dark. The next morning we had a
look at those mountains and realised we were in for about the toughest
job we had ever undertaken. He had failed to take into account the fact
that Mr, Absolea was a first class athlete. He had cone out to Australia
as one of England's eleven to trim the colonists conception of themselves
as cricketers and had acconplished the job properly. Absolem was also a
mountaineer of note. He never saw a high mountain that he did not want
to climb to the very top and generally did. The cow boy and self were all
there on horseback but were poor infantry on rough country. As for the
young man with us he was just a young nan froM the east, perhaps a good
average there but a poor one where he found hiwself . We started up the
mountain and in less than an hour we found ourselves in woeful trouble.
Instead of making for the highest ridge and following it as Absolem did,
we attenpted a short cut by cutting across the slope about half way up.
We found that slope a succession of spurs and deep ravines running
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down the lake and covered with the Most treaendous groHth of tiaber I had
ever seen. The ravines were so clogged with fallen trees that, as a rule,
we could only cross by clinbing along the body of sone Monstrous pine cedar,
or redwood, twenty feet or w>re froa the bottoH. In one such crossing we
started up a large cinnaaon bear. Hy Hinchester was on ay back but owing
to the awkward position we were in, failed to get a shot. The first day, we
possibly Made three 議 iles froii our starting point. It was the 19th of July,
•y birthday, and although m were over 7,000 feet above the sea it had been
very wam during the day, probably betHeen 90 and 100 F.H. in the 鷗 iddle of
the day. As soon as the sun disappeared the teaperature fell at a
wonderful rate. We aade cai^ in a ravine and built. a rousing fire but
towards norning mre shivering from the cold* I found My blanket, a
snail one, covered with frost. Fortunately for us we found the woods alive
with coveys of young grouse of three varieties* One variety knoum out
there as the blue grouse is a Magnificent bird, as large as a chicken
when full grofffn. The ruffed grouse were in great ntwbers and lastly there
were "fool hen* that one can frequently knock over with a stick. During
the day we had shot as Many of these birds as we required. They were so
tame we got all we wanted with our revolvers. When flushed froB the ground
they would nake for the lowest branches of the nearest tree and allow us
to approach with t 枕 or twenty feet before making another nove. He roasted
as Many of then as we could eat over our fire with strips of bacon as
seasoning. The second day was a repetition of the first. We camped in
another ravine, had «ore grouse but biscuits were all gone and bacon about
finished. The third day we entered the pronised land about dark. Grouse
plentiful but absolutely nothing else. He were obliged to eat then without
salt, but had plenty of fine drinking tuater to wash then down with. The «anna
was becoMing scNuewhat Monotonous. When we entered the valley we saw a drove
of deer within a quarter of a mile. I tried to stalk then but without
success. With heavy boots on what else could one expect? The next
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day we explored our valley. It was a beautiful place of 2,000 or 3,000 acres
in extent, dry but well watered and covered with the finest grass I ever
saw outside of Kentucky or Ohio. It was alive with deer, elk, and judging
frcM the size of the foot prints, reindeer also. But we Here by this tiae
too anxious to get back to the supplies of our wagon to waste tine in
trying for specimens. It was then as it is today, doubtless, a beautiful
spot. But the cold night we spent in 画 id July told us that its sumers
■ust be too short for agricultural purposes and its winters very severe
with 黼 uch snow. He saw signs of Indian encaqwents but there were none
there at the time of our visit. Ne all sHore we would never go over these
Mountains again and decided to try the lake shore going bade. We found
this route covaratively easy. Nith the exception of a few spurs that
Me Here obliged to cross nfe found the shore practicable all the way. We
were often obliged to wade, often pretty deep, but that Has a delightful
exchange for those horrid ravines. He started early fro* the valley and
Made our wagon before dark, (tar driver sam us co«ing a long way off and
knew what we would want when Me got in. He had ready for us such a feast
as I have seldcw enjoyed. Fine trout he had caught, haM and biscuit
and tinned things and best of all, lots of coffee. I had had no tiling to
snoke for two days and had been reduced to cheMing plug of which our cow
boy was well supplied. Any saoker can realize «y delight on finding a
box of cigars I had left in my grip intact.
- Our Visit to Deer Lod^e 一
About August 1st Captain Blakiston joined ne at Spokane. He had
COM across fro* Hokodate in a sailing vessel and had occupied his tiae
in taking the teverature of the sea several tiaes every day in order to
deteniine the flow of currents north along the Asiatic coast and south
down the coast of Aaerica. His observations deaonstrated that the Kurosiwo
or Black Current could have no influence whatever upon the cliaate of the
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Pacific Coast as it is generally supposed to have. The Mild cliMate of
that coast mas entirely due to the southerly Minds fon the Pacific that
prevailed during the winter aonths. These winds are knom in the westem
states and Canada as the Chencok [sic] winds. He sprat August in Idaho and
Montana visiting the unsettled regions of those states. At that iiwe the
Northern Pacific railnay was nearing coiQtleticm* Mien m reached the Paci-
fic end of it tiiere was a gap of one hundred 觀 iles betHeen that end and
the eastern terainus at Deer Lodge in Montana. He traveled across this
gap partly by wagon but over the last part, which is very wmntainous and
Mas being tunneled, <m foot. He sprat tuo days at Deer Lodge which at that
tiae was considered tbe Horst town in the United States. Originally it
Mas a Mining caap. Hhen the teninus of the N.P. railmy Mas tavorarily
established tiiere gaablers, cow boys and toughs of all kinds i locked in and
the gun Has the law. The southern part of the towi Has all gaud)liiig dens
saloons and dance halls. Blakiston and I spent an evening in this part of
the torn. He wanted to see for ourselves how the frequenters
conducted theaselves. Alaost every «an we aet, and there seeved to be
thousands of thea, Has a walking ars«ial> but as a rule very quiet in
speech and aanner. They seeaed to have a code of their own in Mhich the
proper answer to bluster and abuse was a pistol shot. Too ntcb bad
whisky was the greater cause of a row, a Misunderstanding, lAidi were
frequently followed by funerals the next «orning« He visited several
gambling rooms all of which were orderly. We saw hundreds of wen playing
faro, poker, roulette and other games. So far as we observed they cashea in
their chips or accepted their losses Hithout a word. But we were told wny
shootings occurred. Hhen only two Here engaged both were, frequently
subjects for the coroner next day. He Here entirely unaolested* Perhaps
because He Minded our own business, possibly because m did not look like
profitable chickens to pluck. Shortly after our visit ttie two ends of the
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N.P, railtny Here joined. The railway sen «iere scattered and the Money
that aade the booa at Deer Lodge was no longer to be had. The gasblers
Moved to Bore inviting fields and the urslial and his deputies got the
upper hand with the toughs and Hi thin a short tiae Deer Lodge becaae an
orderly, law abiding town.
ProM Deer Lodge we visited Hel 棚 and near that place a large
hydraulic gold Mining plant lAere Mountains of earth were washed dom into
f lanes by enomous jets of Nater froa eight inch pipes with a lead of 300
feet and four inch nozzels. He witnessed a cleanup after a three days run
and were told it was a good one. Certainly the aaount of gold
collected froa the fluae i«as very valuable*
- The Geysers - Yellowstone Park -
Fron Helena we went to Yellowstone Park. At Livingstone we
hired an outfit consisting of a two horse wagon, extra riding horse and
a driver. The latter was also our guide and soon beacae our friend* He
proved hiaself to be one of the best of thousands of splendid plain [s] Men to
be found at that ti«e. There was no guile in him. Open, free and resource-
ful he Has full of huaor and had a store of anecdotes that he Nould
relate in the quaint lingo of the west 加 t HCHild wake us chuckle in our
canp fire sle^« He was the kind of man that Blakiston deli ゆ ted in. It
Mas fine to note the tens of absolute equality upon Mhich the soaeiAat
stern old veteran of the Criaea accepted his friend of the plains, knd the
affectionate care shorn by the latter for the elderly Englishaan in Nhooi
he recognized a man aaong «en, tias equally pleasing. Be was with us during
tNO weeks of caap life and I an sure it was a wench for all when we
parted. At the entrance of tiie park we stopped at an outfitting place
consisting of a few tents. As m entered tiie place we passed by a young
■an on horseback Nho was having a rather heated conversation with
anotiier aan, a GOTun, on foot. He had been in the store but a few ninutes
Mhen He beard a pistol shot. He ran out and found the young aan lying on
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the ground. He tried to raise him up but be died in our am. The bullet
froB a heavy colt had passed entirely through bis chest. He sam his
assailant running as fast as he could for so«e ti 纏 ber land.
At that tiae there Mere no hotels in the park* The Ifanoth [sic]
Springs Hotel, near the entrance, ms building and one wing of it so near
finished that quite a nmber of guests could be very coafortably
accoModated. He reached the hotel in the evening and although
Mr. Hatch bad arrived the day before with a large party of ladies and
gentleaen fro« New York, were given very comfortable quarters. After s 卿 per
quite a party rode up. Aaongst the« we recognized the store keeper
froM idKM we had obtained our s 卿 lies that aorning. Re inforaed m that
they Here after tiiat Dutclnan and if m desired to see a nedc tie
party He aight have that pleasure by joining the«« Ne aade our excuses
and spent a very pleasant evening with soae of the guests of the hotel
instead. One of the «ost noticeable of these was U.S. Senator Beck of
Kentucky. The Senator had that day visited the Norris geyser basin about
twenty 矚 iles fro« the hotel. The Norris basin is filled with snail
bad saelling mid geysers not at all interesting Nhen compared to the
great upper fields. Senator Beck expressed hivself as quite satisfied with
Mhat be bad seen and intended returning east next Moniing* He said all the geysers
big and little, worked on the save principle. In fact the force that caused
a tea kettle to boil over was identical Mith that idiich caused the Sheri-
dan geyser to tiiroH a col 画 of water forty feet in dianeter. three hundred
and fifty feet in the air and hold it pulsing up and dom for hours at a
tiae. The learned Senator said he had endured a very uncoaf or table ride
of tuenty 黼 iles to see sev^al seysers that spoated tMenty or wore feet
high, that he was particularly satisfied with lAat he had seen and was
not at all disposed to go thirty 黼 iles further to see the sam kind of
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thing spout a thousand times as mich hot water ten tiaes higher. As for the
falls of the Yellow Stone and the Canyon below, the swe things m a
snller scale Mere to be seen all about the Haaoth Springs Hotel. As for
hi 画 he Mas not going one Mile further away froa a railiiay than he then
was to see all the geysers, canyons and water falls, not only in VelloM
Stone Park but in the entire United States of Aaerica.
We spent the next day at the Ha«oth Springs and then »ade our
start to see the park proper. A few aile oat froM the springs we met a
couple of trappers • They had a two horse covered wagons and an extra
riding horse as an outfit. They were about the toughest looking pair of
citizens I had ever seen. They infonned us they had inside a Dutchaan
wanted for killing a young fellow near the springs and were then on their
May to band over the «an and get the reward, $100, offered by the
sheriff of Livingston. Our driver told thea he rather guessed they had
better travel some other road than the one they were then folloHing if
Uiey expected to get their un to Livingston with an unbroken neck. Our
hairy friends rauirked that they redcnoened they Hight be able to stand
off any gang that aight be hanging around the springs. To which our
driver replied that he bad noticed about fifty gents lAo were accus toned
to having their own nay. banging aroond Nhen he left, but if they felt
equal to the job he wished them good luck and good norning. "Hold on a
second stranger, as you seen to knoM sonething about these parts, perhaps you
could suggest a More healthy road to Livingston than this here one seems
to be just at this present acMient". Our driver pointed out with his Mbip
to the right and said, "The trail over there will lead you out," and left then
without another word. After m had driven on for a short distance he
said: [つ I just had to show them a my out, but I just hope to God the vigi-
lantes are on tiie look out and will get ti» Dutchman yet." He spent a [sic]
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delightful ten days in the park, caaped for several nights
within one hundred yards of the "Old Faitiiful*. Not the largest by any
■eans but one of the aost beautiful of all the geysers. The absolute
regularity with Nhich it erupts every 62 or 63 Minutes aakes it the aost
satisfactory. While Me Mere there it Mas wxHiIigbt. The great coliun of
steaaing Mater pulsing up until it reached a height of 120 or aore feet
was indescribably beautiful in the soft light of the full mm. While «e
Mere there President Arthur, escorted by General Phil Sierid«) with a
conpany of cavalry and one hundred Indian scouts, caae in and awle caap
quite near us.
FroH the geysers we went on to the falls of the Yellow Stone,
700 feet in height and spent two days viewing the canyon below tiie falls,
one of the nature's aost beautiful things. No pen nor brush can do it justice.
The longer one lingers near it the greater is the reluctance to leave it.
On the Nest^ side of the park Me took leave of our driver friend who had
bem with us for nearly two weeks and engaged a large spring wagon with
four horses to take us over the continental divide separating the head
waters of the Hissoari floHing east and south to the gulf of Mexico fro*
the Maters of the &iake river floNing to Pacific. The divide between
the waters flowing east and nest is. apparently a flat plain. Two saall
streams within fifty yards of each otiier are pointed out. One flows to the
Missouri, the other to the Snake river. A few 覼1168 further west Henry's
Lake is reached. It is about fifty 觀 iles fro* the park and fifty ailes fro«
Beaver canon Idaho. It is a large Neil-mtered plain trfiere, perhaps,
the finest trout fishing in tiie world was to be had at the tiae we passed
throng. Ne spent tMO days at a hunters caap to oyoy the fishing and see
the great herds of elk, black and white tailed deer. In the rougher
Mountainous country big horns Mere plentiful at that ti»e. Fro* an ele-
vated spot thousands of heads of gaae Here in sight. The plain is about
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8,000 feet above the sea and the tine between ice and ice is only about
three Months. At the ti»e I speak of, it mas a sportsaan' s paradise. I
have heard that for years since then there is scarcely a head of gane to
be seen Hi thin a day's ride and instead of trout running fron two and one
half pound to five pounds in weight, the fisheman is satisfied with
one half to a pound.
- The HorMons -
At Beaver canyon we struck the Utah Northern railway and took
train for the east via Salt Lake city. We spent tMo days in seeing ihe city
of the Honons and the splendid work of reclaaation in nhat ai^ieared to
be a baiTOi sage brush desert before they brought water to nake it a
veritable garden. The Horaoii settleaents froM Idaho south, for several
hundreds of niles, are subject to church discipline and goveriwent, and in
ibeiT prosperous and clean Mell to do appearance, present a wcmderful
contrast of superiority over the few gentile villages that are seen. In
the foner everything is clean, prosperous and the people Mell behaved. In
the latter filth and squalor and ruffianly Manners* I a 麵 writing of
nearly forty years ago and conditions May have changed greatly since then.
Let us hope that the gentile settlers have swroached their unholy
nei ゆ bors soMwhat in the ordinary decencies of life.
From Salt Lake He went directly to the old ho«e in Ohio where
fathers Mother, brothers and sisters were all still alive and well. I
found 矚 y daughter Helen ffK>i!derfully inproved in the six Months since
I left her. She had alnost entirely forgotten her Japanese and spoke
English as fluently as the ordinary run of youngsters of her age* Blakis-
ton had planned to go to England after naking us a short visit but Has so
Much pleased mib the people and life in central Ohio that he postponed
his departure for a mootb or aore* In fact he did not leave us until
he had persuaded my second eldest sister to becoae Hrs. Blakiston. On his
return fnw England about a year later they were urried and lived a
-74-
happy life in New Hexico until he died a fen years later.
As for Myself I had seen aany places in the north west where I
would have been glad to begin a new life but I dared not take my wife
there. The change from Japan to the back woods of the north Nest would
have been too great.
Diplowatic Career,
A fortunate circuMstance brought about the creation by the U.S.
Congress of the posts of Second Secretary of Legation for the Tokio and
Peking Legations and President Arthur was good enough to appoint ae to
Tokio and Hr. Bockhill to Peking. So in the spring of 1884 I left the U.S.
the seccmd time for Japan to take up a post for lAich I was about as
poorly qualified by previous training as any poor aortal could very well
be. But I detervined to fit ayself for the new reqaireaents if it were
possible to do so. I soon found that the first requisite Mas to ascertain
Hhat the other fellows were doing and what they were doing it for. To
■ake friends wherever possible, to put on no side at all but to defer,
lAen possible, to those who did. To get to knom every detail of Court
etiquette in order to be of use to a neit chief on arrival and to knoN every
one he Has likely to aeet and to keep bim posted in regard to social
duties and engageaents. To be always ready with our views on ii^nrtant
aatters when asked to give then but to be shy of volunteering the* without
very grave or urgait reasons for doing so. To so absolutely gain the
confidence of your chief that be would always call for your views on any
question if only to ascertain if it has been fully omsidered. I was very
fortunate from the beginning in 矚 y relations with the several chiefs under
whoa I served. Her I^»erial Majesty the Empress was pleased to receive
ay wife very kindly, thus establishing her position with the Court ladies
-75-
and the higher circles of Tokio society. Her friendly relations with the
ladies of Tokio gave «e a footing in the social life of a class of Japa-
nese that it would have been difficult, otherwise, to have obtained. She, who
had been my comrade through uny years of Hokkaido life Hhich would have
been indeed lonely without her, adopted the requirenents of Court etiquette
and the laws of Tokio society seeningly without effort. In 1888 she beca-
■e ill and died in October of tiiat year. For aonths after I could take
but, little interest in life and had it not been for the kind support
and syapathy of Mr. Mansfield, secretary of legaticm and son- in- law to
Nr. Hubbard, then 鶴 inister, I should have resigned my post and returned to
Anerica. But ti«e the great healer did its work and «y interest in
Japan, its people and «y omnection Kith tiien. revived and I rauined at 園 y
post.
Mr. Hubbard nas succeeded by Wr. Swift of California in 1889 and
the same year I was appointed secretary of legation by Mr. Harrison, tiien
President. The spring of 1890 Mr. Swift died suddenly and for eithteen
wmths I was Charge d* Affaires until 1891 when Br. Cooabs of California was
appointed 矚 inister and took diarge the sane autum. Mr. Cleveland was
again elected President in 1892 and after his inauguration in 1893
appointed me Minister to Japan. I iMiediately applied for leave of
absence to visit Aaerica and within ten days after my appointvent left
Tdcio in order to relieve Mr. Coonbs of the aibarrassMent of having his
successor in Tokio before he was pr^)ared to leave. My appointHent had
cone not only as a surprise to hi 黼 but to m also. Ifcile I knew that
certain powerful influences were working for we in Anerica I did not
believe they Mere strong enough to overcome the political pressure that
delegations fro« California and Pennsylvania were exerting to secure the
place for tbeir respective states: Perhaps the President, not wishing
-76-
to offend either one of these parties by appointing the candidate of
either, decided to sake an appoinUient entirely outside of politics and
selected we on recoMendations he had received of my fitness for the post
and on my record in the department of state. However that say be I Nent
to A«erica> was cordially received by the President and Judge Greshaa, then
Secreatary of State and spent a delightful Month with Ky daughter, tiien a
girl of fifte^ and Hith ay w>ther> brothers and sisters. Hy father had
died two years before.
So I left hone the tiiird txm for Japan but under what changed
conditions. Before I had gone alaost as an adventurer, I now weat as the
envoy of ay country to the highest post that an Aaerican could, at that
tiae, fill abroad. During my term of four years as ■inister my relations
with the Japanese authorities and a hundred of others in private life were
of the Bost cordial nature and I have reason to believe served to
strengthen the good and friendly relations already existing between the
two countries.
- The Foreign Mode in Tokio -
But I u anticipating. Fron 1885, everything foreign was the
rage at Court and on the social life of Tc^io. Entertainaeats of all kinds
in foreign style were the thing. Balls, fancy dress and plain were of
weekly occurrece. Garden parties and receptions were alaost of isicj aaily
affairs. Greatly to be regretted the costiwe of the Court ladies was
changed. The old beautiful court dress that added so wicb to the chara of
the Cherry Blosson and Qirysanthemu garden parties, gave place to costuaes
froM Paris, for those who could afford it and to horrid imitations for
those who could not. The Buto-kai or society for the acquiraient of
European forws of Court etiquette was organized. It had a ■e«berships of
perhaps 200 and set titice a nonth at the RokineikMan. Countess, afterwards
Princess, I to Mas its president; Marchioness Nabeshiaa. Countess Inouye,
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Countess Toda, and in fact all the ladies and gentleaan that foraed the
social life of Tokio at that tine were active aeabers. A few foreigners we-
re admitted to Meabership. Baroness Sannoniya and Miss Hayes were aeMbers.
My wife Mas a metA&r and I was adaitted to «e«bership on her account, I
presune, as I never was particularly omavental at such gatherings. The
recepti<His began at about 9 o'clock in the evraing by Countess I to who
Mould be seated on a raised dais. She would be approached in the Manner
prescribed at Court and after reception the ■eabers Nould withdraM from the
presence in the sase fonul my, Court etiquette being observed throughout.
After the reception, dancing Mould be in order. A 難 ilitary band furnished
excellent Music* About 11:30 p.m. »i excellent cold supper Mas served ending
the function at 黼 idnight*
The Buto-kai introduced so aany innovations into the social
observances that had hitherto governed the relations between young people
of opposite sex that it was difficult for then to decide where the
requirements of deconn ended and iflaodesty began. For instance, until
then it had always been considered indelicate for young aen and HOKn,
not very closely connected, to meet and associate freely and faailiarly
together. It would have been highly iBproper for a young lady to take the
hand of a strange young man and as for the contact required in roond dances
the idea of such a thing was absolutely indecent. Yet, such Mas the extreme
desire to i 颺 itate everything foreign in fashion and deconn that the
training and traditions of Japanese ladies and gentleaen for generations
seemed to be at least ignored if not forgotten. Fortunately the evils
resulting from the foolishly conceived and badly governed neetings of
the Buto-kai Mere so qttidcly recognized by the exalted personages who had
in their ill advised desire to do away with old Japan and Europeanize the
country as quickly as possible, tiiat its asetiags nere discontinued
within less than a year from their beginning. There were another very
-78-
potent reason why foreign social ways and nodes of life should not take
the place in a large degree of the old established customs of Japan.
That was the Matter of expense. The cost of waintaining Japanese establish-
nents as they were, and are, aust continue as a Matter of course. To add the
cost of foreign establishnents of even nodes t dimensions would have entai-
led an increased expense that even the wealthiest would have found eabar-
ra^ng.
So the excessive craze for everything foreign that was at its
zenith about 1886 began to decline and the beauties of their own old
custoRS, cerenonies and dress together with the fitness of old social
restraints for the govenuient of Japanese social life began to re-assert
itself. Comon sense began to take control in place of one of those
extraordinary aental delusions that, for a tine, aay lead a people into the
greatest folly.
Unfortunately one folly had been consuimated that could not be
rectified. The substitution for the beautiful old court costume of the
ugly, ever changing fashions of dress of Europe. Oh! The pity of it!
To change the magnificent cos tunes that adorned the ladies of the Court
and lent an added dignity and beauty to every occasion on which they
appeared, for the female rai»ent of the west, was an unforgivable crime
against good taste. Had there been a reason of state for the change it
飜 ight have been accepted with sorrow as unavoidable, but there was no
reason for it at all. It was a part of the work of young fools who had
been sent abroad to study western ways and manners ana m the glawour and
glitter of what they saw becaae ashaned of their own country and of
whatever it differed fros what was considered the proper thing in the
west. It was a tiae when for fear of sissing soMe thing desirable for then
-79-
to secure fron the west the Japanese seened ready to accept all that was
foreign and discard whatever had been theirs for thousands of years. They
had not yet found their place under the sun and were reaching out in all
directions for a rock upon which to establish thevselves. It was a tiine
when Japan Mas not seriously considered by Europe or America. They were
not serious conpetitors in trade, extra territoriality was in full force; an
European or American could connit the Most aboninable crime without
liability to Japanese law. The Japanese police could apprehend hin, it is
true, but only to hand him over to the authorities of his own country for
trial and punishnent. Militarily speaking they were bound hand and foot.
Being so advantageously situated fron a western point of view, they were
petted and nade mich of. What a nice polite people they were! Hon chaning
in their hospitality! What lovely scenery! What lovely works of art and
how cheap! But as for recognizing the progress Made by Japan in changes of
governnent to meet the requirements of the west, her judiciary, her laws and
adiiinistration there of, the excellence of which were freely recognized,
there was nothing done for wore than ten years after the United States had
practically admitted that the time for the abolition of extra- territo-
riality had cone. And we who pride ourselves upon our justice to all
nen, on our readiness to protect the ttfeak fron the strong, could not see
our way to the doing of a simple act of justice to Japan until Great
Britain and the European powers were prepared to do likewise. In our boas-
ted acts of generosity to Japan can we point to one where a sacrifice of
value was Made on our part? It is true that in this respect we have a bet-
ter record than the rest of the world, but none of the other great powers
have, so far as I can reveaber, pretended to be guided by anything but self
interest in their dealings with this country.
- I 鴯 igration Question -
It was not after the Chinese and then the Russian war that the
western world began to take Japan seriously. Since her success in
-80-
those wars she has ceased to be the charging youth with beautiful nanners
and works of art with whom it is delightful to visit and exchange
coffipliaients and expressions of admiration. She has found her place and in
all Matters pertaining to the east nust be recknoned with. Great
Britain recognized this years ago and Bade Japan her ally. We, instead
of doing the sane allowed a lot of California gas bags to «ake endless
trouble and endanger the peaceful developnent of the welfare of our own
country and the peoples of the east. There is no reason Nbatever for the
slightest feeling of ill will between the peoples of the two countries.
The i 麵 igration question has been practically solved for years. If the
good citizens of California see fit to confiscate the property of the few
thousand Japanese already settled aaong then and show the saae spirit of
toleration towards then that the Turk exhibits towards the Armenian, it
is a natter for the enlightened people of the United States to detemine
whether such treatment of the helpless stranger within their gates is
consistent with their honor or not. It is within the power of the United
States to act as she sees fit in regard to Asiatics or any other people
admitted as residents or visitors. But unless she uses that power and
right generously and stands ready to protect the meanest stranger within
her borders fron the brutal demands of demagogues who seem to be as free
of coamon sense as they are of all feeling of national honor, then let this
blatant sentinental cant of love of justice, desire to benefit
hunanity, love of freedom and equality anong «en. of which we have heard
so Much during the past few years, cease as it only proclaims us a nation
of hypocrites and liars.
It seens to be the general belief in Aaerica, Australia and Cana-
da that if the bars were down, the entire Japanese population of 60,000,000
people would be ready to emigrate to one or all of those favored lands.
-81-
Hhereas, as a natter of fact, the going of every able bodied man or woRian
fron this country is a distinct loss to Japan. Japan is not over populated,
the demand for labor today that cannot be filled shows that there is
ample room for all and will be for generations to cone. There is a growing
belief among the leading men of Japan that the policy of this governnent
should be to discourage emigration and be ready to conbat the deaand for
Japanese labor that is certain to come from abroad within the next few
years. There is work to do for every able bodied nan and woHan in Japan.
In the developnent of her shipping, her home industries and aanufactures
and her foreign trade, Japan has urgent need of everyone of her subjects.
This talk of over popoulation and the necessity of finding a place where
the surplus nay go is utter nonsense. They are everyone of then needed
at home. The constantly increasing demand for labor in the new industries
that are springing up in all parts of the country anply proves this. Not
only are men in demand but women and children can find employment at wages
not dreamed of a few years ago. To such a degree has this gone that the
government has found it necessary to step in and regulate the limit of
child labor. There is and always will be a venturesone class of young
Japanese that alluring reports of fortunes to be gathered abroad will indu-
ce to leave their hones to better their conditions in life. But the nuMber
of this class is an exceedingly small portion of the whole and as the
denand for their services at home increases, the number of would be
emigrants must decrease. Fifty years ago the population of Japan was
about 30， 鼠 000， whereas today it is nore than double that niwber.
Economically speaking, the country was over populated fifty years ago in the
sense that the labor of the country was far in excess of the industrial
deaand. whereas the industrial denand today is far in excess of the supply
of labor. There is every indication that industrial developiieiit in Japan
will continue to increase at a far more rapid rate than the population
-82-
of the country. If I an correct in this assertion it is absurd to say
Japan is overpopulated. I renember taking part in a discussion about thirty
years ago, when the entire trade of Japan, exports and i 覼 ports, had reached
the yearly value of about $75,000*000, if that was not about the limit that
could be reasonably expected. The najority of foreigners resident here
seened to be decidedly of the opinion that it was. They asked where the
increased production was to cone froa? And if there was no increased
production, how could there be increased exports or neans to buy wore
imports than the country was then taking? At that tine it was difficult
to denonstrate that the resources of the country were not fully developed
but today we see that since that tine the foreign trade of the country
has developed fron $75.000.000 to $500,000,000. The save conditions should
obtain in China, but ■isgovernnent and oppression of the people in that
country for generations has so coapletely killed the national spirit of
the nasses that a re- generation of China seens to be an alios t hopeless
proposition for nany generations to cove.
- The Denocratic Idea in Japan -
It seems to nie thai where Englisluien and Americans utterly fail to
understand the difference in thought between the east and the west
is clearly shown in their conception of a popular form of governe«nt and
the oriental conception of the same thing. In Japan where individual
liberty and equality under the law is fully recognized, in practice and
spirit the feudal systea of class distinction is also as fully recognized
today as it was fifty years ago. The safety of Japan* s social organization
is dependent upon ihe Maintenance of class distinction. The basis of
govenwent, of law and order, is the recognition of the suprene authority
of the EMperor. His will mist be suprene. The people's representatives in
the Diet exercise certain functions of govenwent delegated to the« by the
Emperor. But it should not be forgotten that delegated authority say. at
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any time, be recalled. There is no such thing as party governaent in Japan
as it is understood in the United States and Great Britain. The so called
parties here, are but cliques. The followers of prominent political Men who
by their ability have gained proninence as advocates of change of policy
in administration. The country is governed by the Enperor and his
advisers. The genro or Council of elder statesnen behind the Throne that
appear so proninently whenever a serious crisis presents itself, are the
real government of Japan and also its safety. There has never been the
least dissatisfaction exhibited by the great nass of the people of Japan
towards the governiient furnished then by the supreme control power, which,
in its relation with the people, has always been benevolent and paternal.
Go where one will in Japan no dissatisfaction with the fom of govemnent
will be heard expressed by the masses. Criticism enough of the abominable
administration of local affairs which are indeed sadly in need of impro-
vement, will be heard, but no expression of dissatisfaciton with his indi-
vidual status as a Japanese subject will be heard. This outcry for univer-
sal suffrage is the work of politicians, mischievous agitators and misgui-
ded students with the vaguest notion regarding suffrage, universal or limi-
ted. The existing forw of governnent in Japan is the outcome of thousands
of years of education and practice* The people have become so deeply
imbued with its requirenents that it has become a part of their religion -
and unquestioned guide in their dealings with others and in what they
believe to be their individual rights. Their former loyalty to their secu-
lar feudal lord and adoration of their spiritual lord the Mikado were,
by the restoration Merged into an individual loyalty to the Enperor that
occupies a paraaount place over any mere preference for political party or
leader. The feudal spirit that was divided ainong many daiaios has becone
united in a national spirit that is still as feudal in character as it was
善
sixty years ago. The fealty has become united not changed. I do not nean
to say that the love and respect of the people for their fomer lords has
disappeared, far fron it, next to their supreme devotion to the Eaperor,
their esteea and respect for the fanily of their feudal lord cones next.
The social fabric of Japan is coowiunistic in its organization.
Individuality is coapletely lost in the fanily authority. The paternal
authority is recognized by the children as long as the parents live.
While by Japanese law a child reaches Maturity at the age of twenty and
at that age becones fully responsible to the state for his or her acts
and is free to decide for thenselves in all natters pertaining to their
manhood or woaanhood» as a natter of fact the faaily authority is so
fully recognized that few Japanese have the courage or inclination to
dispute it. Marriages are arranged by the faaily and while it is seemingly
easy to obtain a divorce, it is, as a aatter of fact, alaost impossible to
do so witiiout the consent of the fanily council unless the recalcitrant
party is fully prepared to accept the full displeasure of the faaily
authority. The fanily organization is More complete in the rural dis-
tricts where, as a rule, the subvillages are so closely related by inter-
narriage that they are all of one or two recognized faailies governed by
heads and council. This faaily authority has no connection with the
authority exercised by the state through its laws enforced by its police
and judicial authorities. But the organization of faaily govenunent
is the result of centuries of custom and has become a fixed part of
Japanese life. In so far as they are practicable with nodern conditions,
the custoMs and traditions of old Japan are recognize! by modern Japane-
se law. In the cities and centers of industries the population has, to some
degree, broken loose fron old restrictions and customs. Modern requirements
have brought into existence a roving population that has lost all sense of
subservience to faaily restraint. Their old feeling of respect for the
-85-
elders of their homes and for the families of their old feudal lords has
becone greatly weakened if not entirely lost by association with other
members of the class that is rapidly forming what may be designated as
the skilled labor organizations of today. The tendency is to organize
into labor unions for mutual advantage and protection and to secure
individual voice in the selection of govemnent representatives and the
making of laws. It is from this class that the opposition politicians
find their greater support and front whom the recent outcry for universal
suffrage principally comes. The present manifestations of social unrest
that are growing more and more apparent are but the reaction of the world-
wide terrible social upheaval that is distracting mankind. Its serious-
ness in Japan is nore apparent than real. The conservative elenent of
this country which includes the entire rural population, the back bone of
the country, is unaffected by it. The froth of the cities which makes
such an outcry for all sorts of ill considered and dangerous changes may
be troublesome but can never be dangerous so long as the steady support of
the conservative element of the country remains as it is today in sympa-
thy and support of the real government of Japan.
JAPANESE ATTITUDE TOWARDS FOREIGNERS.
It seems to be the belief of nany foreigners that the Japanese
are secretive and wanting in frankness and truthfulness in their dealings
A
and, if not absolute liars by nature, are at least deceijitful and untrust-
ゾ
worthy. My long life in Japan, nany years of which in most intimate
association with all classes of her people, entitles me to speak with some
authority in regard to the national characteristics of the Japanese as a
A
people. I have no hesitancy in declaring that far from being the deceijitful
V
-86-
un truthful and dishonest people as charged by nany writers, they will
coMpare Host favorably in these respects with Europeans and Anericans.
The sweeping charges of innorality made against the Japanese, as we
understand the aeaning of that word, are as absurd as it would be to clai 觀
that they are all saints and that when they err it is in all innocence and
fron lack of knowledge of evil.
In early days, at all open ports the shop keepers with whon
foreign tourists, in particular, cane in contact were, with few exceptions
absolutely lacking in cownercial integrity. It was fear of loss of trade
to less greedy competitors that restrained then at all. Since the
opening of the entire country to foreign residence and trade, conditions
among the small trades has greatly changed for the better, but doubtless
there is still much room for improvement. But when it is reffiembered that
before the restoration the trader held a very low position socially, that
next to the coolie and was expected to overcharge his customers in propor-
tion to their position and ability to be cheated, it is not surprising that
the shopping experiences of foreigners in early days were very unsatis-
factory and that Japanese shop keepers were, as a class, universally
designated as unmitigated rogues and cheats. But from tine imenorial
the integrity of the Japanese artisan has been recognized by all who have
had dealings with then. They were as jealous of their reputaion for
honest work and honest prices as the sane class of workmen in Europe or
America.
With the opening of Japan to foreign trade which for «any years
as entirely in the hands of foreign finis, an entirely different class of
Japanese Merchants and business nen began to appear. In the beginning they
acted nerely as the agents of foreign firms but, little by little, they
began, in a small way, direct trade with foreign countries on their own
-87-
account. In time they established their own branches at all important
ports in foregin countries. Today it is the Japanese merchant[sj that control
the trade of Japan and the foreign houses represented in Japan by branches are
practically, only the agents of the Japanese*
The Japanese merchant of today is as far removed from the
despised shop keeper of early days as day is from night* I think I an not
exaggerating in stating that he compares favorably with the same class
in Europe and the United States. He and his compeers in Mining and all
branches of manufacturing industry have made for themselves a name for
straight dealing that is respected by all foreigners in Japan who have had
business relations with them. Some years since, I was present at an enter-
tainment given by a branch of the Hitsu Bishi Co., at which many foreign-
ers were present. One of the most prominent of these, a very highly
reps pec ted Englishman, took [the] occasion to say that of all the coiwiercial
houses with which he had had business relations, the Mitsu Bishi was the only
firm in the world, not excepting those of his own country, whose word
he preferred to their bond. He said that when he had their bond he was
certain of getting exactly what it called for. If their word only, he
was sure of receiving more than was promised,
- The Feudal Spirit -
The organizations of all large trading, industrial, Manufactu-
ring and producing Japanese firms is certainly on a far more liberal
scale or basis than is dreamed of in Europe or America. The relations
between the conpany and its employees is entirely different. The employee
feels that he is part of the fim and that his advancement and well being
in it rests entirely with himself. He knows that he is secure in bis
living for life. That after serving the conpany for a fixed number of
years he will be entitled to retire on a good pension as long as 产 lives*
If he is disabled by accident or disease, the insurance fund set apart for
-88-
that purpose* will not only support him during his om life, but also his
chilaren until they are of sufficient age to support themselves in enploy-
nent furnished then by the cooipany.
In the natter of bonuses Japanese firns are liberal to a degree
that Mould be considered absurd by foreign firns. When the year's business
has been unusually profitable as has been the case for several years
past, after a liberal dividend has been allowed to share holders and reser-
ve adequately provided for, the surplus is alaost entirely absorbed in bonus
to employees. Last year bonus paid to their employees by all the principal
firms in Japan was very large. This recognition is not confined to the
high grade enployees only. Every workHan in the peraanent service of the
company benefits in a proportionate degree. Naturally the relations
existing between enployee and enployer in Japan are entirely diffjtrent
from those prevailing in the west. Here there is a feeling of nutual
respect and esteem, possibly the outgroMth of self interest towards the
conpany they all serve.
The relations between master and servant in Japan are also
entirely different froM those exisitng in Europe and Anerica. The servant
in Japan is an hunble nenber of the family and, unless guilty of gross
Misconduct, is as Much a permanent fixture in the fanily as the legitiirate
members thereof. Such relations in the higher families naturally influen-
ces the social relations of all classes* The fonts of etiquette practiced
by high class Japanese are naturally observed and followed by the lower
classes as closely as is consistent with their position and calling in
life. The expressions of courtesy manifested by all well bred Japanese in
their relations with one another in their daily life is the outgrowth of
respect for the feelings of others and an earnest desire to please. The
善
Japanese are an exceedingly amiable people, always ready to go more than
half way to secure the good will of foreigners in which they are influenced
more by a feeling of good will and good fellowship than by any thought of
advantage to thenselves* Always ready to assist one another when in trouule
I have never yet known of a case where the helping hand was not extended
to the stranger in distress. In the recent wars in which they have been
engaged, compare their treatment of enemy subjects residing among them
with the treatment extended by the nost civilized nations in Europe, Conpa-
re their treatment of prisoners of war with that of the sane enlightened
Christian nations. In a thousand ways the Japanese have manifested their
desire to live in peace with all nen and by their acts, have approached
nearer to the observance of peace on earth and good will amongst men
as commanded by Christ, than many of the great nations that profess to be
the followers of his teachings and send thousands of missionaries to the
east to inpart the true faith. Only a few months since a senator of
the United States in the Senate chanber at Washington spoke of the Japanese
who only fifty years ago were emerging from barbarism! That such a colos-
sal fool should live and even be a senator of the United States dia not
strike me as very extraordinary but that such a foul, brutal insult
to a friendly people, whose civilisation was far advanced when we had none
at all, was not rebuked was permitted to pass unchallenged by a body of wen
selected for their ability and enlightenaient to form the Senate of the
United States caused a feeling of shane for my country that I can never
forget.
The past few years the slogan of politicians, professors, states-
men and students has been denocracy as the sovereign renedy for all ills
that afflict Mankind! Of the hundreds of wise wen who have written and
spoken on this subject are there any two whose definition of democracy is
-90-
the sane? And if so, would they recoMiend that the denocratic fom of
governnent that has been success in one country should be established
in all other countries? For example take the dewocracy of the United
States under which the people of that country have grown and prospered
wonderfully for 140 years, would they apply it to Japan? The A«erican
republic was forced into existence by the Bisgovernnent of the ■other
country, not by an uprising brought about by sentimental theorists. The
people of thirteen colonies found themselves forced into a position that
obliged them to unite in the establishment of a fom of government for
their own protection and well being. As long as our country was a poor and
struggling nation our republic retained all the simplicity and representa-
tive forn that our forefathers intended: "A governwent of the people, by
the people and for the people". Can any Anerican say that it is the sane
today? Besides the splendid sacrifices nade by the people in their blood
and treasure when called upon to save the world in a terrific crisis not
yet safely weathered, what voice have the people of the United States had
in the making of peace and readjustment of affairs that nay so vitally
affect our future? They were frooi the beginning in the hands of an auto-
crat who tine and again declared that he would act as he thought fit,
absolutely disregarding ttie popular will and other branches of the govern-
ment elected by the people. The advocates of liberalism, as it is designa-
ted, speak of it as the spirit of deaocracy and hunan brotherhood, American
democracy has certainly taught individualism, it has inculcated the belief
in "every van for himself and the devil take the hindwost", but as for the
human brotherhood as practiced in Japan for the past two thousand years,
the idea is preached in our churches but its practice is left to charita-
ble institutions maintained for the purpose. In the civil service of the
United States what care or provision is nade for the public servant who
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from age and illness is unable to continue his duties. He is ruthlessly
cast out as Morn-out shoe is discarded without care or thought for the
suffering of one who has spent his life in the service of his country.
The sane practice prevails in regard to the servants of our industrial
concerns. The managenent claim that they pay liberally for services
rendered and if their eaployees are careful they can retire on a competen-
cy before old age overtakes then. But if the enployee is
not of a careful or saving nature or that he has nade bad investments that
has swallowed up his savings, what then? Oh! We are sorry for him but
cannot be held responsible for failures of that kind. But under [the] conditions
existing in Japan today as they have existed for tens of centuries, they
would be held responsible. Under Japan's feudal system of governnent and
family life, every roan's place, occupation and responsibilities were fixed
and he was provided for from the cradle to the grave. It is true his free-
dom as an individual was very much restricted. This brought about the
desire for greater personal freedom, in the student class and anong the
residents of cities where foreign ways are more in evidence in the life of
the people. The harsher requirements of the old feudal days nay be modified
to conform to the change of recent years, but to advocate the abolition of
the old feudal life that has been the very spirit of the people of Japan
for twenty- five hundred years for an ideal democracy untried and misunder-
stood is, to Biy Mind, the height of folly. What purpose have the advocates
of universal suffrage in view? To add several nil lions of ignorant voters
to the large nunber of slightly less ignorant persons who noM exercise
that privilege cannot result in a more intelligent House of representatives
being secured. If not in the belief that it can, what object its advocates
have in view? Surely it cannot be believed that the mere privilege of
voting will nake better men of those who now have not the privilege*
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- Political DeveloDinents -
Universal suffrage has certainly not had that desirable effect on character
in the United States. In what respect has it improved the ten 矚 illions of
negroes, two millions of whom have the right to vote? And what benefit have
real Americans derived from the privilege granted to ignorant foreigners
who value their right to vote only as something they can sell to the
highest bidder. Eninent professors and wise«en of this country are
speaking nuch just now of public opinion, of its condeaming the action
of the government in this, that, and the other. Of its demands for party
governnent & Just what do they nean by public opinion? If they »ean the
opinion of the highly educated classes, lawyers, scientists, college profes-
sors and the leading politicians who are just now out and want to get in,
I can understand their contention. If they mean the Japanese people en
masse, they are talking utter blatant nonsense. The average Japanese farmer
for instance, knows nothing of political issues and cares less. When le-
gislation or decrees affect his personal interests he is not slow in
expressing his opinion in regard thereto, favorably or unfavorably, as ix
may affect him. He detests nilitary service, but recognizes that the safe-
ty of the Empire denands it. He is a lover of peace and disposed to live
in good fellowship with the entire world, but he detests injustice and is
quick to resent disregard of what he believes to be his rights. In short
the Japanese are a kindly disposed, generous people, if left undisturbed by
agitators, visionary theorists and so-called refomers, native and foreign.
They will in time, develop along Japanese lines into a great people and
nation.
But the Japanese of today was a civilized being three thousand
years ago and the teachings, traditions and gradual develop»ent of thirty
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countries has made him what he is now. He is not an European, American or
Chinaman, He is a Japanese and any attempt to bring about the * pangs of
spiritual rebirth" as one eminent professor claims they are now under-
going. Bust end either in failure or national disaster. He must advance as a
Japanese or be absorbed by a stronger civilization. Bolshevism has already
started on its eastern narch. When it reaches the borders of Korea Japan
must be strong enough to check its onward march or be overwhelmed in its
flood.
Another eminent professor of the Imperial University contributes
an article entitle [d]: "New thought in Japan: The growth of Liberal isM and its
eventual Triuraph*. If these eminent scholars would turn their eyes from
the beautiful picture, in fancy, of a new Japanese democracy living in peace
and loving good will with all the world, to the terrible cloud that is even
noM looming in the west, they night give more thought to the safety of
Japan as she is today and even think better of militarism as they call it,
and recognize the wisdom of Maintaining their military preparedness. The
leading men of Japan know they have nothing to fear from America, that an
armed conflict between the two countries, if not impossible, is extremely
improbable. But they do recognize the danger threatening fro» the
directly opposite direction. The Russians have for generations been stri-
ving for southern outlets to the sea and as Russian future development
will, it seens, be towards the east, as the line of least resistance seems
to be towards that direction, her interests and those of Japan must meet in
conflict before nany years have passed. If there ever was a tine when
every able bodied son of Japan should be trained to defend the national
existence of their countr^, that tine is now. It is not Militarism that
demands it, but simple prudence and cooHBon sense.
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In the archives of our embassy is anple evidence of the open,
frank and perfectly friendly relations that have fro* the beginning
governed the intercourse between America and Japan. My personal relations
with all the eminent men of Japan at that tine, including Prince I to,
Marquis Inouye (the elder) Count Hutsu, Count Hayashi and many other pro -
ninent statesmen who have passed to the other shore, left nothing to be
desired. And I know that the relations of American representatives
who preceeded ne and of those who cane after, have been just as cordial and
satisfactory with the representative men of their tine as was the case in
»ine. There was no idea of concealment in our intercourse. Our object
always was to ascertain the truth in any question affecting the interests
of the two countries in order to ascertain the proper action to be taken,
if action was necessary to prevent misunderstanding. As far as my own
experience goes, I can testify that in government policy ana in business
relations with rivals in trade, the Japanese are inclined to be remarkably
frank and open in their dealings with foreigners and their own people
alike.
- Work during the Japan- China War_ -
At the beginning of the Japanese- Chinese war, 1894-95， with the
consent of the President, I arranged that the American Legations at Tokio
and Peking night be freely Made use of by the Japanese and Chinese govern-
ments as a channel of indirect comsunication between the two governments.
Numberless questions arose relating to the trade and welfare of the people
of both countries that had no connection with the prosecution of the war
that could be adjusted only through the good offices of a third party. For
instance I would receive a note from Count Mutsu relative to trade or some
other question affecting the interests of Japanese or Chinese, I would
at once telegraph the note word for word to Mr. Denby at Peking, using
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the secret code of the American government. Mr. Denby would send a transla-
tion of the note to the Chinese Tsung Li Yanen with a covering note.
Within a day or so he would receive a note addressed to himself, from the
Chinese giving the views of the Chinese Governnent on the natter he had
coummunicated to them. This he would, in turn, telegraph to me in code which
I would at once translate and send to Count Mutsu. The freqency
and length of notes that passed through the two legations was surprising.
Particular ily towards the end of the war the channel of coianunication which
we had provided was freely used by both belligerents to bring about
negotiations for peace and I an confident that our good offices were the
means of shortening the war by several months. Many of the notes received
for transmission were of such confidential nature that I deemed it best
to make use of but one member of the legation in handling them and that
was Dr. W.N. Whitney, interpreter of legation who was very reliable and
careful in such matters. Many of these notes would be of 500 or 600
words , several of 1000 or more were received for transmission. The frequen-
cy of their receipt was such that I did not feel at liberty to absent
myself from the legation for more than a few hours at a time during the
entire period of the war. As a matter of fact I did not pass one night
away from the legation during that entire time. Frequently notes would
reach me when Dr. Whitney was away or not available. In such case I was
under the necessity of putting the note in cipher iiyself. Any one who
has been obliged to code a note of five or six hundred words, word for
word, in order that when translated by the receiver of the telegram the
note will read exactly as the original, will understand what considerable
work is necessary. Several times day light has found ne still at work
on such a message received the evening before.
That our work was appreciated by both the Japanese and Chinese
governments was evidenced by the desire expressed by both governsents to
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confer upon Mr. Denby and myself the highest decorations ever conferred
upon Ministers Plenipotentiary at that tine. As decorations fro* foreign
governments could not be accepted by officers in the service of the United
States except under peniission granted by special act of Congress, we
respectfully requested both governments to withhold the offer and thereby
relieve us of the nortification of being obliged to decline the acceptance
of so great an hear.
End of My Diplomatic Career
My story practically ends with the temination of my diplonatic
career in 1897. I was relieved of my post in the sane brutal Manner
that thousands of better men than nyself have experienced at every change
of administration. In ny case the Department of State had not the decen-
cy to notify me of the appointment of ny successor Mr. Buck. It was left to
that gentleman to find his way to Tokio and the legation as best [asj he could,
introduce himself to me and exhibit his credentials together with 矚 y let-
ter of re-call. And it was left to me, without instructions, to accoMpany
him to Kioto, present him to the Enperor and, at the same ti«e take leave of
His Majesty myself.
I believe it would be difficult to find a parallel in any civi-
lized country in the world of such an absence of dignity and
unqualified brutality as was exhibited by our Depart«ent of State on that
occasion.
I will only add that shortly after my recall I went to America
and, having business in Washington, called on our new Secretary of State
Mr, Shenan of Ohio, ny own State. He received m with seeming pleasure and
■uch to «y astonislwent remarked that, doubtless I was about to leave for
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翻 y post as our new Minister to Japan! In utter bewildement I infonaed
hi 騸 I had just come froK Japan where I had assisted my successor Hr. Buck
in the transfer of the post. Mr. Sheraan apologized for the blunder
and said that in the Multitude of changes in foreign posts recently aade,
be had got my name and Mr, Buck's confused. I then noticed that the
poor old gentleaan was sadly changed, Mentally, fro* the brilliant Senator
and recognized Republican leader of Onio*
Since that tiae, the story of iiy continued residence in Japan.
»y second marriage and happy life until death again left m alone, my
efforts to support my children and ayself would interest no one and would
be a rather sad tale for ne to tell.
- The End -
